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--- techtalk:evo:engctl01 [2022/10/12 21:33]
ixl2relax
+++ techtalk:evo:engctl01 [2024/01/03 03:06]
hippysmack
@@ Line 59: / Line 59: @@
 **Heat Test - Method #1** - If the bike usually fires when cold but dies when warm/hot, test the ICM with the engine cold. With a cold engine, use a hair dryer to blow heat on the ICM (in the nosecone) before attempting to start it. After it's warm, see if the engine fails to start due to the spark missing or intermittent.
-**Heat Test - Method #2** - Once you have a running failure from heat, use 'cold spray' to quickly cool down the ICM (in the nosecone). If the ICM has failed due to heat, this test will check if it will begin to produce a spark again after being cooled down.
+**Heat Test - Method #2** - The alternative is to use Cold Spray (see note below). Once you have a running failure from heat, use the cold spray to quickly cool down the ICM (in the nosecone). If the ICM has failed due to heat, this test will check to see if it will begin to produce a spark again after being cooled down.
-Somtimes, these two methods can be used in combination to create & resolve a failure condition, although heat related problems can still be hard to diagnose/resolve. The same procedures can be used to test the ignition coil for heat failure.
+Somtimes, these two methods can be used in combination to create & resolve a failure condition, although heat related problems can still be hard to diagnose/resolve. The same two procedures can be used to test the ignition coil (or other aftermarket ignitions or  misc. electronic components) for heat failure.
+**'Cold Spray'** is a different form of the 134A A/C coolant. It can also be labeled as 134 Spray, 134A Spray, Freeze Spray, Component Cooler, etc. One version is Chemtronics Duster ES-1017. Don't confuse this with other medical-type freeze spray which should not be used because they include topical ingredients. Be sure the product you get has No Residue. The right product is pure 1,1,1,2-tetrachluoroethane.
 __The 1998-2003 1200Sport model__ used an independent Ignition Control Module and the same Sensor Plate as the 1986-1997 models. The 1200Sport model pioneered the Single-fire Spark system and the Manifold Air Pressure sensor (MAP) for the future Sportster models.
-Like the other 1998-2003 models, the 1200Sport ICM is no longer available from the MoCo. Some have coverted to using the aftermarket nosecone ICM as mentioned above for the non-1200Sport models. (See Aftermarket Ignition Swap: [[http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1382357]] ((Article by steelworker of the XLFORUM)) )
+Like the other 1998-2003 models, the 1200Sport ICM is no longer available from the MoCo. Some have converted to using the aftermarket nosecone ICM as mentioned above for the non-1200Sport models. (See Aftermarket Ignition Swap: [[https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-electrical/sportster-motorcycle-electrical-and-ignition/130785-sportster-sport-1200s-98-03-ignition-replacement?t=1382357]] ((Article by steelworker of the XLFORUM)) )
 ^  OEM Ignition Control Modules (Latest Known Superceded Version)  |||||
@@ Line 90: / Line 92: @@
 | Pin11 | LtGREEN/Red | Data Link (Pin1) | ... | Pin11 | BLACK | Harness Ground |
 | Pin12 | VIOLET/Red | Data Link (Pin3) | ... | Pin12 | PINK | Signal to TACH (RPM out) |
 \\
@@ Line 102: / Line 99: @@
 ==== 2004-2006 ====
-The Ignition Control Module (ICM) became more capable and included a digital communications link (SDB) between itself, the Turn Signal Module and the Speedometer. This new Serial Data Bus (SDB), using an accessible data port on the side of the bike, also allowed the ICM to be dealer programmed for either 883 engines or 1200 engines, with upgrades as well.
+The Ignition Control Module (ICM) for 2004-2006 became more capable and included a digital communications link (SDB) between itself, the Turn Signal Module and the Speedometer. This new Serial Data Bus (SDB), using an accessible data port on the side of the bike, also allowed the ICM to be dealer programmed for either 883 engines or 1200 engines, with upgrades as well.
 The newly added Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) replaced the camshaft pickup as a more advanced means of sensing the engine revolutions and the new Manifold Air Pressure sensor (MAP) replaced the VOES as a more advanced means of sensing engine loads. The ignition system gives a spark near top dead center for starting. Then, at running RPM and loads above this, the system gives a spark advance that varies between 0 and 40. (For further information, see the section below titled: 2004-later Single-fire Spark Synchronization)
@@ Line 108: / Line 105: @@
 From this point forward, all the Sportster models used a Single-fire Spark system, using two individual coil trigger wires to produce a spark on individual spark plugs, one at a time. (see coil information)
-The Ignition Control Module for these years is programmable by the dealer to match the specific model bike, either 883 or 1200. It is mounted under the seat. The part number on the ignition module is really the version of the internal software that was last flashed into the module. The module may have started out as a 32478-04 (or 32622-04) module, but it might then have been upgraded to 32622-04A. Later built models would have had the latest upgraded part installed from the factory. As of 2020, the 32622-04C is listed as correct for all 2004-2006 models (then programmed for 883 or 1200) and older modules are recommended to be upgraded to that level.
+The Ignition Control Module for these years is programmable by the dealer to match the specific model bike, either 883 or 1200. It is mounted under the seat. The part number on the ignition module is really the version of the internal software that was last flashed into the module. The module may have started out as a 32478-04 (or 32622-04) module, but it might then have been upgraded to 32622-04A. Later built models would have had the latest upgraded part (software) installed from the factory. As of 2020, the 32622-04C is listed as correct for all 2004-2006 models (then programmed for 883 or 1200) and older modules are recommended to be upgraded to that level.
 It is believed that the stock RPM Limit is set for 6000 for 883 models and 5500 for 1200 models((These values are assumed to reflect the like values for the 2003 883 & 1200S model Sportsters)). The 2005 Owner's Manual says that 6000 RPMs is the maximum safe RPM but does not specify to which engine version that applies. The 883 Tuning Image on TechTip#58-2004-12-06 shows a Rev Limit of 5500 RPMs. For various models, some owners have suggested 5400, 5800 or 6000.
@@ Line 117: / Line 114: @@
 ==== 2007-2013 ====
-With the implementation of Electronic Fuel Injection, the Electronic Control Module (ECM) is the heart of the ignition system. It obtains inputs and controls outputs as listed below. This expanded capability for the ECM allows it to be programmed in minute detail to account for changing conditions in the operating engine.
+With the implementation of Electronic Fuel Injection, the Electronic Control Module (ECM) for the 2007-2013 models is the heart of the ignition system. It obtains inputs and controls outputs as listed below. This expanded capability for the ECM allows it to be programmed in minute detail to account for changing conditions in the operating engine.
 The ECM obtains input information from:
@@ Line 143: / Line 140: @@
 ==== 2014-later ====
-To further expand the computerization of the Sportster, the ECM was equipped with a Controller Area Network Bus (CANBUS) and the Body Control Module (BCM) was added. In general terms, the CANBUS replaced the digital communications between the smart controllers (in place of the Serial Data Bus) and allowed computerization of the handlebar controls, while the BCM replaced the Turn Signal Module and handled power distribution throughout the bike, including to the lights and other components. The BCM also eliminated all relays.
+To further expand the computerization of the Sportster, the ECM for the 2014-later models was equipped with a Controller Area Network Bus (CANBUS) and the Body Control Module (BCM) was added. In general terms, the CANBUS replaced the digital communications between the smart controllers (in place of the Serial Data Bus) and allowed computerization of the handlebar controls, while the BCM replaced the Turn Signal Module and handled power distribution throughout the bike, including to the lights and other components. The BCM also eliminated all relays.
 ^ Year ^ Module P/N | Function |
@@ Line 162: / Line 159: @@
 \\
+==== Ignition Timing - Adjustable 1986 Thru 2003 ====
-==== Ignition Timing - All Models 1986 Thru 2003 ====
+  * Ignition timing is when the spark takes place - specifically as the piston is traveling UP on the COMPRESSION stroke (compressing the gasses so that you get the most out of the explosion/ignition). ((Moved On / My Own Choice https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-intake-and-exhaust/sportster-motorcycle-air-intake-carburetor-efi-fuel-and-exhaust/55778-function-of-the-map-sensor/page2?t=278587&highlight=map+sensor&page=2))
+  * Top Dead Center is when the piston is at the VERY top of its travel, in the center of it's dwell area, and is usually referenced to mean on TDC of the COMPRESSION stroke (with the valves closed and the mixture compressed), though the piston will also be at TDC on the Exhaust stroke when the flywheel turns one complete rotation in either direction from TDC of compression. ((Moved On / My Own Choice https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-intake-and-exhaust/sportster-motorcycle-air-intake-carburetor-efi-fuel-and-exhaust/55778-function-of-the-map-sensor/page2?t=278587&highlight=map+sensor&page=2)) So, the piston will be at TDC twice per 1 full revolution of the cams. Timing is measured (and set) from TDC on the compression stroke. Check below for the images of cam notch on timing rotor position relative to TDC Compression or see more on [[techtalk:ref:svcproc22#reftroubleshooting_-_engine_-_05|Finding TDC on Compression Stroke]] in the Sportsterpedia.
-  * Ignition timing is when the spark takes place - specifically as the piston is traveling UP on the COMPRESSION stroke (compressing the gasses so that you get the most out of the explosion/ignition). ((Moved On / My Own Choice http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=278587&highlight=map+sensor&page=2))
+  * Spark ADVANCE - is how soon, BEFORE the piston reaches top dead center (all proper timing is BEFORE TDC) that the spark plug fires to start burning the mixture. The faster the motor is turning, the sooner you need to start the ignition (more advanced it needs to be) so that the power of the expanding gasses starts pushing on that piston as soon as it starts moving downward and pushes as long as will be beneficial. ((https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-intake-and-exhaust/sportster-motorcycle-air-intake-carburetor-efi-fuel-and-exhaust/55778-function-of-the-map-sensor?t=278587))
-  * Top Dead Center is when the piston is at the VERY top of its travel, in the center of it's dwell area, and is usually referenced to mean on TDC of the COMPRESSION stroke (with the valves closed and the mixture compressed), though the piston will also be at TDC on the Exhaust stroke when the flywheel turns one complete rotation in either direction from TDC of compression. ((Moved On / My Own Choice http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=278587&highlight=map+sensor&page=2)) So, the piston will be at TDC twice per 1 full revolution of the cams. Timing is measured (and set) from TDC on the compression stroke. Check below for the images of cam notch on timing rotor position relative to TDC Compression or see more on [[techtalk:ref:svcproc22#reftroubleshooting_-_engine_-_05|Finding TDC on Compression Stroke]] in the Sportsterpedia.
+    * Ignite it too soon, and the gasses start pushing down as the piston is still coming up (spark knock, pinging etc). ((https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-intake-and-exhaust/sportster-motorcycle-air-intake-carburetor-efi-fuel-and-exhaust/55778-function-of-the-map-sensor?t=278587))
-  * Spark ADVANCE - is how soon, BEFORE the piston reaches top dead center (all proper timing is BEFORE TDC) that the spark plug fires to start burning the mixture. The faster the motor is turning, the sooner you need to start the ignition (more advanced it needs to be) so that the power of the expanding gasses starts pushing on that piston as soon as it starts moving downward and pushes as long as will be beneficial. ((http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=278587))
+    * Ignite it too late, and you loose a lot of the power of the gases, since the piston will reach bottom before the gasses finish expanding. ((https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-intake-and-exhaust/sportster-motorcycle-air-intake-carburetor-efi-fuel-and-exhaust/55778-function-of-the-map-sensor?t=278587))
-    * Ignite it too soon, and the gasses start pushing down as the piston is still coming up (spark knock, pinging etc). ((http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=278587))
-    * Ignite it too late, and you loose a lot of the power of the gases, since the piston will reach bottom before the gasses finish expanding. ((http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=278587))
+^  The timings and rpms in the following chart are from the Factory Service Manuals for the various years.  ||||||
 ^ Year ^  0°=TDC\\ Timing Mark  ^  20°BTDC Adv\\ Timing Mark  ^  40°BTDC Adv\\ Timing Mark  ^  Timing Hole\\ on Engine  ^  Notes  |
-| 1986-90 | Vertical Line | Single Dot |  None  |  Left Side  | Approx. 1000rpm=20°Adv - Using Timing Light - Look for Single Dot - 4sp Trans|
+| 1986-90 | Vertical Line |  None  |  Single Dot  |  Left Side  | Set Idle = 1650-1950rpm - Use Timing Light - Look for Single Dot (40°) - 4sp Trans Models|
-| 1991-95 | Vertical Line | Single Dot |  None  |  Right Side  | Approx. 1000rpm=20°Adv - Using Timing Light - Look for Single Dot - 5sp Trans|
+| 1991-95 | Vertical Line |  None  |  Single Dot  |  Right Side  | Set Idle = 1650-1950rpm - Use Timing Light - Look for Single Dot (40°) - 5sp Trans Models|
-| 1996-99 | Vertical Line | Double Dots |  Some-SingleDot  |  Right Side  | Approx. 1000rpm=20°Adv - Using Timing Light - Look for Double Dots |
+| 1996-99\\ 2000-03 | Vertical Line | Double Dots |  Some-SingleDot  |  Right Side  | Set Idle = 1000-1050rpm - Use Timing Light - Look for Double Dots (20°) \\ 2000-2003 have Press Fit Flywheel |
-| 2000-03 | Vertical Line | Double Dots |  Some-SingleDot  |  Right Side  | Approx. 1000rpm=20°Adv - Using Timing Light - Look for Double Dots - Press Fit Flywheel |
 | 2001-03 1200S models || These models need a Dynamic Timing of 15° BTDC when at Approx. 1000rpm (The ICM changed curves for these years)((2003 FSM 99484-03)) ||||
 |  The Timing Hole Plug (HD P/N 720) can be removed with a 3/8" Allen Hex Key - It has 5/8-18 threads  ||||||
@@ Line 192: / Line 188: @@
 Important: Be sure you are on the compression stroke of the front cylinder when setting the Static Timing. When you rotate the engine (as follows) be sure you feel the pressure in the front cylinder spark plug hole is building up as you rotate toward the TDC mark. Turn the engine over as often as necessary to guarantee you are on the compression stroke of the front cylinder.
-The Nosecone Ignition unit (98-03 not-S) can be **statically** timed (without the engine running) using the built-in LED. The procedure is to manually rotate the engine (bike on lift, 5th gear, rotate rear tire to rotate engine) to position the engine to TDC (front cylinder compression stroke) using the timing hole to look for & center the vertical line. Then, turn the ICM/Cam Sensor Plate slightly clockwise & counterclockwise to find the exact spot where the light switches between on & off - Lock down the plate.((aswracing comments http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1662422)) In this way, the ignition module is synchronized to the engine (TDC) so that it can effectively calculate the proper time to fire the spark plug BEFORE TDC.
+The Nosecone Ignition unit (98-03 not-S) can be **statically** timed (without the engine running) using the built-in LED. The procedure is to manually rotate the engine (bike on lift, 5th gear, rotate rear tire to rotate engine) to position the engine to TDC (front cylinder compression stroke) using the timing hole to look for & center the vertical line. Then, turn the ICM/Cam Sensor Plate slightly clockwise & counterclockwise to find the exact spot where the light switches between on & off - Lock down the plate.((aswracing comments https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/frame-mount-evo-sportster-talk-1986-2003-models/154902-sportster-timing?t=1662422)) In this way, the ignition module is synchronized to the engine (TDC) so that it can effectively calculate the proper time to fire the spark plug BEFORE TDC.
 **Static TDC Timing for the 1998-2003 Sport Model**\\
@@ Line 206: / Line 202: @@
 **Setting the Dynamic Timing**\\
-To set the timing **dynamically**, with the engine operating, first, remove the timing plug & install the clear timing hole viewer plug (It MUST NOT touch the flywheel but needs to be as close as possible). Connect the clamp of an inductive pickup timing light (powered by the battery) to the front spark plug wire. This will allow you to 'shoot the light' into/thru the clear viewer plug. Then start the engine, set the idle at 1000 RPMs & shoot the light into the timing hole. Move the timing plate so that the 20° advance timing mark shows up in the center of the timing hole. For 01-03 1200S models, estimate the specified 15° BTDC at 1000RPMs based on the 20° flywheel mark, using the tick marks on the Cam Sensor Plate as a guide or use a dial back timing light.
+To set the timing **dynamically**, with the engine operating, first, remove the timing plug & install the clear timing hole viewer plug (It MUST NOT touch the flywheel but needs to be as close as possible). Connect the clamp of an inductive pickup timing light (powered by the battery) to the front spark plug wire. This will allow you to 'shoot the light' into/thru the clear viewer plug. Then start the engine, set the idle for 1986-1995 models at 1800RPMs (40° timing - single dot) or set the idle for 1996-2003 models at 1000 RPMs (20° timing - double dots). Then shoot the light into the timing hole. Move the timing plate so that the proper advance timing mark shows up in the center of the timing hole. For 01-03 1200S models, estimate the specified 15° BTDC at 1000RPMs based on the 20° flywheel mark, using the tick marks on the Cam Sensor Plate as a guide or use a dial back timing light.
 \\
 {{:techtalk:evo:engctl:camsensorplate.jpg?400|}}
-**Moving the Cam Sensor Plate Clockwise (CW) will increase the Advance Before TDC. Moving the plate Counterclockwise (CCW) will retard (or reduce) the Advance Before TDC. TAKE NOTE that each timing mark on the plate (long-to-short) is equal to changing the ignition timing by about 5°. Move the plate __VERY LITTLE__ to make adjustments.** ((aswracing post#17 at http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=488663))
+**Moving the Cam Sensor Plate Clockwise (CW) will increase the Advance Before TDC. Moving the plate Counterclockwise (CCW) will retard (or reduce) the Advance Before TDC. TAKE NOTE that each timing mark on the plate (long-to-short) is equal to changing the ignition timing by about 5°. Move the plate __VERY LITTLE__ to make adjustments.** ((aswracing post#17 at https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-buell-motorcycle-forum-general-discussion/dyno-charts-and-result/71505-help-me-diagnose-my-dyno-tune?t=488663))
+The Cam Sensor Plate can be rotated slightly to accomodate getting the timing mark in the center of the timing hole. You can also move the plate to change the base timing (thus moving both curve sets wholly up or down in all rpm ranges) by setting the timing to a few degrees more or less than the specified advance timing mark. For 1991-later models (right side window), you should be able to see the timing mark move to the right edge of the hole (more advanced) or the left edge of the hole (less advanced). You might find that a Timing Light with a Dial Back feature allows you to set a specific alternate timing setting using the TDC mark as a reference.
+Some dial back timing lights have trouble working with the odd timing signals from a dual-spark 45° engine.
-The Cam Sensor Plate can be rotated slightly to accomodate getting the timing mark in the center of the timing hole. You can also move the plate to change the base timing (thus moving both curve sets wholly up or down in all rpm ranges) by setting the timing (at 1000 RPMs) to a few degrees more or less than the specified advance timing mark. You should be able to see the timing mark move to the right edge of the hole (more advanced) or the left edge of the hole (less advanced). You might find that a Timing Light with a Dial Back feature allows you to set a specific alternate timing setting, but some of these dial back lights have trouble working with the odd timing signals from a dual-spark 45° engine.
+Adding more advance will increase the likelihood of pinging when the engine is hot and/or under heavy acceleration. It is not recommended to move the timing more than an absolute total of 10° either way from the recommended timing. That's only two tick marks!
-Adding more advance will increase the likelihood of pinging when the engine is hot and/or under heavy acceleration. It is not recommended to move the timing (from 20°BTDC) more than an absolute total of 10° either way. That's only two tick marks!
+If you need more change in the timing for your engine, an aftermarket ignition with adjustable advance curves may be required.
-More Information Here:
+More Information on timing is Here:
-http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?threadid=2008019
+https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/frame-mount-evo-sportster-talk-1986-2003-models/188579-timing-on-883-to-1200-conversion?threadid=2008019
 {{:techtalk:evo:engctl:96-03-timing-marks.jpg?400|}}{{:common:space100x5px.jpg?50|}}
@@ Line 259: / Line 259: @@
+===== VOES - Vacuum-Operated Electric Switch - 1983-2003 =====
+==== VOES Sub-Documents ====
+  * [[techtalk:evo:elec01a|Dissecting the Voes]]
+----
+  * The VOES was first installed on Sportsters in 1983 (and used on most models thru 2003). The unit senses intake manifold vacuum at the carburetor and requests that the Ignition Control Module (ICM) switches between one of two different spark advance curves. The switch is closed at high vacuum operation, utilizing a more advanced spark curve and it is open at low vacuum operation, utilizing a less advanced (retarded) spark curve to minimize engine knock and still maintain performance. The VOES is installed above the intake manifold. ((1959-1985 Clymer Sportster Repair Manual pg 230))
+  * **VOES: Its Operation & Adjustment.**
+    * There are many discussions on the XLForum and elsewhere regarding the VOES unit. While there are many helpful posts among those discussions, there is still much confusion due to posts that are inaccurate. I hope to clarify the VOES operation with this post and a reference diagram.
+    * The VOES unit was used on the Sportster from about 1983 (Ironhead) to 2003 (Evos). But, note that the 1998 to 2003 Sport models did not have a VOES but rather pioneered the use of a MAP sensor like that used on 2004 and later model Sportsters. Those models have Engine Control Modules which can micro-manage the ignition advance based on multiple conditions.
+**Here's what the VOES looks like** with a quick reference chart of it's operation:
+{{techtalk:evo:engctl:voes_quick_reference_chart.jpg|}}((Illustration created by IXL2Relax at the XLForum))
+See the explanation of manifold absolute pressure -vs- vacuum gauge readings in the REFerence section on the'Ignition Modules - Aftermarket' page:\\
+http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/techtalk:ref:engctl01#manifold_absolute_pressure_-vs-_vacuum_reading
+{{:techtalk:evo:engctl:vacuumreadings-map-vs-gauge.jpg?400|}}
+  * .
+    * **What it does and how.**
+      * The VOES works in conjuction with the Ignition Control Module (ICM) to control ignition timing. The ICM has two timing curves - one is for idling or cruising and the other is for WOT and/or for powering up for high loads (like steep hills). The VOES switches the ICM between these two pre-programmed advance curves based on manifold vacuum.
+      * The built-in curves of the ICM vary timing based on the engine RPM. The VOES allows a choice between timing curves based on engine load because the load will vary even though the RPMs are the same (different gears, different terrain, etc.)
+      * The VOES has two connections and one adjusting screw. The VOES is connected to the carb (manifold side) through a vacuum hose and monitors the manifold vacuum level. It is also connected to the ICM. It has two black wires from the internal switch. From the inline connector, there is a (purple or purple/white) single wire sent to the ICM and a second wire sent to ground. The VOES switching point is set by a concealed screw. This causes the ICM to switch between the two advance curves based on a set point level of manifold vacuum.
+      * The adjusting screw is inside a sealed opening on the VOES. You must dig out the silicone sealing compound in order to make any adjustments. Remember - When testing your adjustments, you must also seal that opening with your thumb (or other air-tight sealing compound or tape) in order to prevent air leakage through the screw adjuster cavity.
+      * The only function of the VOES is to switch between the two advance curves that are programed into the ICM. Different ignition modules have a different set of 2 curves. Those two curves have anywhere from 5 to 18 degrees difference in the advance settings between them. But that's another discussion.
+      * The manifold vacuum directly controls the VOES, but the throttle position (and/or it's aggressive changes) indirectly alters the VOES (thru changes in the manifold vacuum) by altering the carburetor throttle plate.
+      * When the engine is running at idle, when lightly accelerating or when using a steady cruise throttle, manifold vacuum is high (the throttle plate is mostly closed) and the VOES switch is ON, causing the ICM to use the MORE ADVANCED CURVE.
+      * When the engine is not running or when the throttle is quickly opened to accelerate or to satisfy a heavy load (steep hill, extra weight, etc.), the manifold vacuum drops and the VOES switch goes OFF, causing the ICM to use the RETARDED (OR LESS ADVANCED) CURVE. If you let off the throttle (when you reach your speed or top the hill), the manifold vacuum rises again. The VOES senses this and will again switch ON, causing the ICM to return to the MORE ADVANCED CURVE as the load on the engine becomes lighter.
+      * Running without a VOES causes the ICM to run on ONLY the less-advanced power curve. The ICM cannot switch curves. Unless you have a highly modified engine, this will hamper smooth engine operation on light acceleration and reduce fuel savings during cruising.
+      * Also note, if the VOES switching point is set too low, it will remain on the more advanced curve too long under mid-load acceleration and pinging will occur. This is the reason that engines with upgraded performance should have their VOES switch point increased (switch at a higher vacuum level) to better match the capabilities of the engine.
+    * **Testing the VOES Operation - HD Bulletins**
+      * __Method #1__ ((HD Service Bulletin #M-856 dated August 6, 1982))
+        * After the engine timing has been properly checked /  adjusted, perform the following check:
+        * With the engine idling, remove the vacuum hose from the carburetor and momentarily plug the carburetor fitting. Timing will retard and engine speed should decrease. Reinstall the vacuum hose to the carburetor. The timing mark should reappear and engine speed should increase to the preset speed. If the engine speed does not decrease and increase as described, check the VOES wiring connection to the computer module and ground wire. VOES must be replaced if malfunctioning.
+      * __Method #2__ ((HD Service Bulletin #M-858 dated October 7, 1982))
+        * You will need a vacuum pump (with gauge) to create the desired vacuum level and an ohm meter. \\ See [[techtalk:ref:tools160#mityvac_vacuum_pump_function_and_usage|MityVac Vacuum Pump Function and Usage]] in the Sportsterpedia.
+        * Remove  the  air  cleaner, disconnect the switch wire from the computer module connector under the fuel tank and remove the switch vacuum hose from the carburetor. The rear of fuel tank may have to be raised to disconnect the switch lead connector from the computer module connector.
+        * Attach the ohmmeter leads to the switch wire and to ground. Attach the vacuum pump hose to the switch vacuum hose.
+        * The ohmmeter should indicate the switch closed with 3.5 to 4.5 in. of mercury vacuum applied. If more or less vacuum is required to close the switch, replace  it.
+    * **Testing the VOES Switch Point**
+      * To test your VOES unit (or adjust it to a specific switching point), you will need a vacuum pump (with gauge) to create the desired vacuum level and an ohm meter to test whether the VOES has switched on (causing a short between it's wires).
+      * To work on the VOES, remove the vacuum hose from the vacuum line tee where it branches to the vacuum-operated petcock. If you don't have a vacuum-operated petcock, and have no tee, you need to remove the vacuum hose from the carb. Then remove the VOES from it's mount under the fuel tank and disconnect the wires.
+      * Connect your vacuum pump to the hose and connect your meter (set on ohms) to both wires. As you slowly pump up the vacuum, there will come a point where the meter will switch from infinity to zero ohms. This is the switch point. Write down the indicated vacuum (inches of mercury). Release the vacuum and do the test again, just to be sure you get a consistant reading.
+      * If the reading is right (according to the manual or chart above) for your bike, you can leave it as it is. If your bike is stock or only upgraded to Stage 1 level, you probably do not need to alter the factory VOES setting. But if you've gone farther with your mods, you might have one of those engine builds where the combination of ignition curves, cams, heads, etc., leaves you with some pinging near the VOES switch point. If you want to make your VOES switch at a different point, read on.
+    * **Adjusting the VOES Switch Point**
+      * Dig out the original sealing compound which fills the opening where the adjusting screw is located. Do this carefully so as not to damage the internal screw or diaphragm or the VOES housing. Remember - When testing your adjustments, you must also seal that opening with your thumb (or other air-tight sealing compound or tape) in order to prevent air leakage through the screw adjuster which will skew your readings.
+      * To adjust the VOES to switch at a higher vacuum, turn the adjuster screw 1/4 turn clockwise. This causes the ICM to switch to the less advance setting sooner off idle/cruise. Now repeat the test from above to see where (in inches of mercury) the new switch point occurs.
+      * To switch the VOES at a lower vacuum level, turn the adjuster screw 1/4 turn counter-clockwise. This causes the ICM to switch to the less advance setting later off idle/cruise.
+      *  Keep adjusting the screw (carefully) to raise or lower the switch point. You should not go more than 1 or 2 full turns from the initial setting. If you turn the screw too far clockwise, you'll damage the internal diaphragm and need to replace the unit.
+      * When you are done making adjustments, you'll need to plug up that hole. But do this very carefully - Be sure you DON'T GET ANY SILICONE DOWN NEAR THE SCREW. Use only enough to plug the end of the opening and then set it aside to fully cure (probably 24 hours) before reinstalling on your bike.
+    * **Variety of VOES**
+      * From the book '101 HD Evo Performance Projects by Kip Woodring & Kenna Love', HD installed VOES on different models with their adjustment set for different switching points. These vacuum settings are measured in inches of mercury. The VOES are color-coded at the sealed end to indicate what setting was used on a particular unit. (I have seen very few with colors other than the natural greyish white - so perhaps HD did not keep up this practice)
+      * No Color - - - 7.0 in. Mercury -- Early Evo FLT (1984)
+      * RED Color- - - 5.5 in. Mercury -- Late Evo FLT
+      * WHITE Color - 4.0 in. Mercury -- Evo FXR & XL
+      * BLUE Color - - 4.0 in. Mercury -- Evo Softail
+      * All of these VOES should be adjustable to other settings. As far as I know, there is no difference in the various VOES units themselves other than their predefined factory settings.
+      * The 2003 Sportster Service Manual says the correct Sportster VOES has a Blue paint mark at the vacuum hose fitting ((2003 Sportster FSM, 99484-03, page 7-14))
+<blockquote>    * **READER BEWARE!!! ...NOT EVERYTHING YOU READ ONLINE IS VALID INFORMATION...**
+      * There's a lot of MIS-information about the VOES & its operation!
+      * There are many threads with references to the VOES and how it works, or how it should be adjusted, or what effect it will have. I've only posted above some of the information that is valid. But there is so much confusion surrounding the VOES that you must read all statements carefully to keep from being misled.
+      * There is a Sticky Thread in the 'Engine Conversion' section titled 'VOES ADJUSTMENT' - Be careful of the information presented there regarding the VOES. "This is the most confusing conglomeration of instructions I have ever read. There is some bad info, some completely wrong info, and some very dangerous info." (A comment from Post# 113)
+      * That thread has some information about connecting an LED light to the VOES-to-Ignition wire to see the VOES switching modes while riding. If you try this, just be careful to read the information thoroughly and understand what you're doing before proceeding. This is the link to that thread: http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=57534
+</blockquote>
+  * **Additional References:**
+    *For the sake of not repeating what can be looked up directly, the following links have VOES discussions (as well as other info).
+      *https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-motor-engine/sportster-motorcycle-engine-conversions/3868-voes-adjusting?t=5945
+      *https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/frame-mount-evo-sportster-talk-1986-2003-models/80961-my-1st-h-d-please-help-with-issues?t=594019 - Thread not all VOES related\\
+      *These posts from the above thread are most applicable:
+      * . . https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/frame-mount-evo-sportster-talk-1986-2003-models/80961-my-1st-h-d-please-help-with-issues/page12?postcount=173#post1716395
+      * . . https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/frame-mount-evo-sportster-talk-1986-2003-models/80961-my-1st-h-d-please-help-with-issues/page12?postcount=174#post1716405
+      * . . https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/frame-mount-evo-sportster-talk-1986-2003-models/80961-my-1st-h-d-please-help-with-issues/page12?postcount=180#post1716472
+      *This post has some great pictures of the inside of the VOES: [[techtalk:evo:elec01a|SubDoc - Dissecting the Voes]]
+      * . . https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/frame-mount-evo-sportster-talk-1986-2003-models/80961-my-1st-h-d-please-help-with-issues/page12?postcount=175#post1716427
+      *http://www.mklsportster.com/xlvoes.htm
+      *http://www.wildwestcycle.com/f_voes.html
+((Most of the above information comes from an article by IXL2Relax of the XLFORUM.net https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-electrical/sportster-motorcycle-electrical-and-ignition/173626-voes-its-operation-adjustment?t=1863153))
+\\
+\\
 ===== Ignition Coil Design =====
-((Updated by IXL2Relax - includes parts from SportsterDoc's post on the XLForum - http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1780092))
+((Updated by IXL2Relax - includes parts from SportsterDoc's post on the XLForum - https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-electrical/sportster-motorcycle-electrical-and-ignition/165501-coil-testing?t=1780092))
 **How-it-works by Steelworker:** An ignition coil is a pulse-type transformer, consisting of a low voltage primary winding (the input) and a high voltage secondary (output) winding, wrapped around a laminated iron core. The primary circuit is completed by the points or electronic ignition module closing the primary circuit to ground. The flow of current in the primary windings induces a strong magnetic field in the laminated iron core. When the primary circuit is broken (by the ground being removed), the strong magnetic field in the core collapses suddenly, which induces a high voltage electrical discharge out of the secondary circuit, thereby, producing a spark strong enough to bridge the electrode gap of each spark plug.
@@ Line 279: / Line 373: @@
 {{:techtalk:evo:engctl:coil-singlefirewiring-07-later.jpg?400|}}\\
 See this thread regarding Knock Sensing in 2014+ models\\
-- http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?threadid=2040499\\
+- https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/efi-sportster-motorcycle-talk-2007-and-up/191218-do-2014-sportsters-have-spark-knock-control?threadid=2040499\\
 \\
@@ Line 289: / Line 383: @@
 -later (or 98-03 1200S): On connectorized, single-fire coils, be sure any modified wiring matches the connections and polarity specified in the schematics.
-See this excellent [[http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=666142|__XLForum Thread__]], especially Post#20 by Fe Head.
+See this excellent [[https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-electrical/sportster-motorcycle-electrical-and-ignition/86179-does-coil-polarity-really-matter?t=666142|__XLForum Thread__]], especially Post#20 by Fe Head.
@@ Line 322: / Line 416: @@
 . . amount since it represents both coils in series. The doubled value is shown above.\\
 From the manual, 04-06 model is listed as 5500-7500 ohms (for one secondary coil)
- ((http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=5511178))\\
+ ((https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-general-discussion-and-problems/124047-getting-out-the-wrenches-was-broken-exhaust-stud/page32#post4055982))\\
 From the manual, 07-up model is listed as 1500-2400 ohms (for one secondary coil)
- ((http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=5438264))
+ ((https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/efi-sportster-motorcycle-talk-2007-and-up/185994-intermittent-miss-backfire-stalls-while-running#post5438264))
- ((http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=4880302))
+ ((https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-electrical/sportster-motorcycle-electrical-and-ignition/166003-possible-ignition-issues-with-my-1200-sportster-2008/page2#post3547245))
- ((http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=3122008))\\
+ ((https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/efi-sportster-motorcycle-talk-2007-and-up/110527-bike-cranks-but-won-t-start-after-running-harness-through-frame/page2#post2334955))\\
 \\
+\\
@@ Line 482: / Line 575: @@
 ^ **On 2004-later models**, the ICM will not fire during engine turn over with both spark plugs removed. At least\\ one spark plug must be installed to create engine compression. **For simplicity**, for all 2004-later spark tests,\\ you can use a spare, known good, spark plug that is grounded to the engine fins. Connect the spark plug wire\\ under test to the spare spark plug rather than removing the original in-cylinder spark plug. ((NOTE from 2004 EDM: Engine will not spark with both spark plugs removed. When checking for spark, use SPARK TESTER (Part No. HD-26792) with both plugs installed.)) |
-**2004-2006** ((http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=5309032&postcount=44))  \\
+**2004-2006** ((https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-general-discussion-and-problems/180786-engine-turns-over-but-it-wont-start/page3?postcount=44#post3864199))  \\
 Find the Ignition Control Module (ICM) under the seat - Remove the connector from the ICM (12 pin connector known as 10A/B). On that connector, Pin#5 (BLACK Wire) is connected to the main ground while Pin#6 (BLUE/Orange Wire - Front) and Pin#7 (YELLOW/Blue Wire - Rear) provide the triggers for the dual-coil.
@@ Line 561: / Line 654: @@
 |1986-2016 |HD 6R12 (resistor type)| Autolite 4164\\ Bosch YR6LDE\\ Champion RA8HC\\ NGK DCPR7E\\ Screamin Eagle EX12S\\ |Electronic Ign. 0.038-0.043"\\ \\ \\ 12mmX1.25mm Threads - 12-18 ftlbs torque\\ Wrench = 5/8" or 16mm ||
-\\
-===== VOES - Vacuum-Operated Electric Switch =====
-==== Sub-Documents ====
-  * [[techtalk:evo:elec01a|Dissecting the Voes]]
-----
-  * The VOES was first installed on Sportsters in 1983 (and used on most models thru 2003). The unit senses intake manifold vacuum at the carburetor and requests that the Ignition Control Module (ICM) switches between one of two different spark advance curves. The switch is closed at high vacuum operation, utilizing a more advanced spark curve and it is open at low vacuum operation, utilizing a less advanced (retarded) spark curve to minimize engine knock and still maintain performance. The VOES is installed above the intake manifold. ((1959-1985 Clymer Sportster Repair Manual pg 230))
-  * **VOES: Its Operation & Adjustment.**
-    * There are many discussions on the XLForum and elsewhere regarding the VOES unit. While there are many helpful posts among those discussions, there is still much confusion due to posts that are inaccurate. I hope to clarify the VOES operation with this post and a reference diagram.
-    * The VOES unit was used on the Sportster from about 1983 (Ironhead) to 2003 (Evos). But, note that the 1998 to 2003 Sport models did not have a VOES but rather pioneered the use of a MAP sensor like that used on 2004 and later model Sportsters. Those models have Engine Control Modules which can micro-manage the ignition advance based on multiple conditions.
-**Here's what the VOES looks like** with a quick reference chart of it's operation:
-{{techtalk:evo:engctl:voes_quick_reference_chart.jpg|}}((Illustration created by IXL2Relax at the XLForum))
-See the explanation of manifold absolute pressure -vs- vacuum gauge readings in the REFerence section on the'Ignition Modules - Aftermarket' page:\\
-http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/techtalk:ref:engctl01#manifold_absolute_pressure_-vs-_vacuum_reading
-{{:techtalk:evo:engctl:vacuumreadings-map-vs-gauge.jpg?400|}}
-  * .
-    * **What it does and how.**
-      * The VOES works in conjuction with the Ignition Control Module (ICM) to control ignition timing. The ICM has two timing curves - one is for idling or cruising and the other is for WOT and/or for powering up for high loads (like steep hills). The VOES switches the ICM between these two pre-programmed advance curves based on manifold vacuum.
-      * The built-in curves of the ICM vary timing based on the engine RPM. The VOES allows a choice between timing curves based on engine load because the load will vary even though the RPMs are the same (different gears, different terrain, etc.)
-      * The VOES has two connections and one adjusting screw. The VOES is connected to the carb (manifold side) through a vacuum hose and monitors the manifold vacuum level. It is also connected to the ICM. It has two black wires from the internal switch. From the inline connector, there is a (purple or purple/white) single wire sent to the ICM and a second wire sent to ground. The VOES switching point is set by a concealed screw. This causes the ICM to switch between the two advance curves based on a set point level of manifold vacuum.
-      * The adjusting screw is inside a sealed opening on the VOES. You must dig out the silicone sealing compound in order to make any adjustments. Remember - When testing your adjustments, you must also seal that opening with your thumb (or other air-tight sealing compound or tape) in order to prevent air leakage through the screw adjuster cavity.
-      * The only function of the VOES is to switch between the two advance curves that are programed into the ICM. Different ignition modules have a different set of 2 curves. Those two curves have anywhere from 5 to 18 degrees difference in the advance settings between them. But that's another discussion.
-      * The manifold vacuum directly controls the VOES, but the throttle position (and/or it's aggressive changes) indirectly alters the VOES (thru changes in the manifold vacuum) by altering the carburetor throttle plate.
-      * When the engine is running at idle, when lightly accelerating or when using a steady cruise throttle, manifold vacuum is high (the throttle plate is mostly closed) and the VOES switch is ON, causing the ICM to use the MORE ADVANCED CURVE.
-      * When the engine is not running or when the throttle is quickly opened to accelerate or to satisfy a heavy load (steep hill, extra weight, etc.), the manifold vacuum drops and the VOES switch goes OFF, causing the ICM to use the RETARDED (OR LESS ADVANCED) CURVE. If you let off the throttle (when you reach your speed or top the hill), the manifold vacuum rises again. The VOES senses this and will again switch ON, causing the ICM to return to the MORE ADVANCED CURVE as the load on the engine becomes lighter.
-      * Running without a VOES causes the ICM to run on ONLY the less-advanced power curve. The ICM cannot switch curves. Unless you have a highly modified engine, this will hamper smooth engine operation on light acceleration and reduce fuel savings during cruising.
-      * Also note, if the VOES switching point is set too low, it will remain on the more advanced curve too long under mid-load acceleration and pinging will occur. This is the reason that engines with upgraded performance should have their VOES switch point increased (switch at a higher vacuum level) to better match the capabilities of the engine.
-    * **Testing the VOES Operation - HD Bulletins**
-      * __Method #1__ ((HD Service Bulletin #M-856 dated August 6, 1982))
-        * After the engine timing has been properly checked /  adjusted, perform the following check:
-        * With the engine idling, remove the vacuum hose from the carburetor and momentarily plug the carburetor fitting. Timing will retard and engine speed should decrease. Reinstall the vacuum hose to the carburetor. The timing mark should reappear and engine speed should increase to the preset speed. If the engine speed does not decrease and increase as described, check the VOES wiring connection to the computer module and ground wire. VOES must be replaced if malfunctioning.
-      * __Method #2__ ((HD Service Bulletin #M-858 dated October 7, 1982))
-        * You will need a vacuum pump (with gauge) to create the desired vacuum level and an ohm meter. \\ See [[techtalk:ref:tools160#mityvac_vacuum_pump_function_and_usage|MityVac Vacuum Pump Function and Usage]] in the Sportsterpedia.
-        * Remove  the  air  cleaner, disconnect the switch wire from the computer module connector under the fuel tank and remove the switch vacuum hose from the carburetor. The rear of fuel tank may have to be raised to disconnect the switch lead connector from the computer module connector.
-        * Attach the ohmmeter leads to the switch wire and to ground. Attach the vacuum pump hose to the switch vacuum hose.
-        * The ohmmeter should indicate the switch closed with 3.5 to 4.5 in. of mercury vacuum applied. If more or less vacuum is required to close the switch, replace  it.
-    * **Testing the VOES Switch Point**
-      * To test your VOES unit (or adjust it to a specific switching point), you will need a vacuum pump (with gauge) to create the desired vacuum level and an ohm meter to test whether the VOES has switched on (causing a short between it's wires).
-      * To work on the VOES, remove the vacuum hose from the vacuum line tee where it branches to the vacuum-operated petcock. If you don't have a vacuum-operated petcock, and have no tee, you need to remove the vacuum hose from the carb. Then remove the VOES from it's mount under the fuel tank and disconnect the wires.
-      * Connect your vacuum pump to the hose and connect your meter (set on ohms) to both wires. As you slowly pump up the vacuum, there will come a point where the meter will switch from infinity to zero ohms. This is the switch point. Write down the indicated vacuum (inches of mercury). Release the vacuum and do the test again, just to be sure you get a consistant reading.
-      * If the reading is right (according to the manual or chart above) for your bike, you can leave it as it is. If your bike is stock or only upgraded to Stage 1 level, you probably do not need to alter the factory VOES setting. But if you've gone farther with your mods, you might have one of those engine builds where the combination of ignition curves, cams, heads, etc., leaves you with some pinging near the VOES switch point. If you want to make your VOES switch at a different point, read on.
-    * **Adjusting the VOES Switch Point**
-      * Dig out the original sealing compound which fills the opening where the adjusting screw is located. Do this carefully so as not to damage the internal screw or diaphragm or the VOES housing. Remember - When testing your adjustments, you must also seal that opening with your thumb (or other air-tight sealing compound or tape) in order to prevent air leakage through the screw adjuster which will skew your readings.
-      * To adjust the VOES to switch at a higher vacuum, turn the adjuster screw 1/4 turn clockwise. This causes the ICM to switch to the less advance setting sooner off idle/cruise. Now repeat the test from above to see where (in inches of mercury) the new switch point occurs.
-      * To switch the VOES at a lower vacuum level, turn the adjuster screw 1/4 turn counter-clockwise. This causes the ICM to switch to the less advance setting later off idle/cruise.
-      *  Keep adjusting the screw (carefully) to raise or lower the switch point. You should not go more than 1 or 2 full turns from the initial setting. If you turn the screw too far clockwise, you'll damage the internal diaphragm and need to replace the unit.
-      * When you are done making adjustments, you'll need to plug up that hole. But do this very carefully - Be sure you DON'T GET ANY SILICONE DOWN NEAR THE SCREW. Use only enough to plug the end of the opening and then set it aside to fully cure (probably 24 hours) before reinstalling on your bike.
-    * **Variety of VOES**
-      * From the book '101 HD Evo Performance Projects by Kip Woodring & Kenna Love', HD installed VOES on different models with their adjustment set for different switching points. These vacuum settings are measured in inches of mercury. The VOES are color-coded at the sealed end to indicate what setting was used on a particular unit. (I have seen very few with colors other than the natural greyish white - so perhaps HD did not keep up this practice)
-      * No Color - - - 7.0 in. Mercury -- Early Evo FLT (1984)
-      * RED Color- - - 5.5 in. Mercury -- Late Evo FLT
-      * WHITE Color - 4.0 in. Mercury -- Evo FXR & XL
-      * BLUE Color - - 4.0 in. Mercury -- Evo Softail
-      * All of these VOES should be adjustable to other settings. As far as I know, there is no difference in the various VOES units themselves other than their predefined factory settings.
-      * The 2003 Sportster Service Manual says the correct Sportster VOES has a Blue paint mark at the vacuum hose fitting ((2003 Sportster FSM, 99484-03, page 7-14))
-<blockquote>    * **READER BEWARE!!! ...NOT EVERYTHING YOU READ ONLINE IS VALID INFORMATION...**
-      * There's a lot of MIS-information about the VOES & its operation!
-      * There are many threads with references to the VOES and how it works, or how it should be adjusted, or what effect it will have. I've only posted above some of the information that is valid. But there is so much confusion surrounding the VOES that you must read all statements carefully to keep from being misled.
-      * There is a Sticky Thread in the 'Engine Conversion' section titled 'VOES ADJUSTMENT' - Be careful of the information presented there regarding the VOES. "This is the most confusing conglomeration of instructions I have ever read. There is some bad info, some completely wrong info, and some very dangerous info." (A comment from Post# 113)
-      * That thread has some information about connecting an LED light to the VOES-to-Ignition wire to see the VOES switching modes while riding. If you try this, just be careful to read the information thoroughly and understand what you're doing before proceeding. This is the link to that thread: http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=57534
-</blockquote>
-  * **Additional References:**
-    *For the sake of not repeating what can be looked up directly, the following links have VOES discussions (as well as other info).
-      *http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=5945
-      *http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=594019 - Thread not all VOES related\\
-      *These posts from the above thread are most applicable:
-      * . . http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=2210315&postcount=173
-      * . . http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=2210326&postcount=174
-      * . . http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=2210400&postcount=180
-      *This post has some great pictures of the inside of the VOES:
-      * . . http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=2210349&postcount=175
-      *http://www.mklsportster.com/xlvoes.htm
-      *http://www.wildwestcycle.com/f_voes.html
-((Most of the above information comes from an article by IXL2Relax of the XLFORUM.net http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1863153))
 \\

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