Differences

This shows you the differences between two versions of the page.

--- techtalk:evo:engmech01a [2018/04/19 03:55]
hippysmack [Installing the Plug]
+++ techtalk:evo:engmech01a [2018/05/14 03:15]
hippysmack [Using a Longer Replacement Plug]
@@ Line 18: / Line 18: @@
   * Try pulling the plug, clean the threads and use some anti-seize on them. The anti-seize should seal up the threads as long as the crank case isn't building pressure and causing it to push some seepage out. ((wedge of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1958781&highlight=timing+hole+plug)) Teflon tape can also be used on the threads to prevent leakage.
+====== Using a Longer Replacement Plug ======
+You can purchase a 5/8-18 oil drain plug from many auto parts stores.
+|The head may be larger than the original but it can be ground to fit with a bench grinder. ((photos by Jordan 1200 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2068069&page=9))|||
+|{{:techtalk:evo:engmech:timing_plug_fix_1_by_jordan1200.jpg?direct&200|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:engmech:timing_plug_fix_2_by_jordan1200.jpg?direct&200|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:engmech:timing_plug_fix_5_by_jordan1200.jpg?direct&200|}}|
+  * If the head on the new one is too big to fit into the machined area of the hole, marked one flat of the head with a sharpie marker so you can verify you've made a full rotation while grinding.
+    * Try to stay on the side of the head instead of under the it with nice even pressure while turning the plug against the wheel.
+    * Clean the edge with a wire wheel (with light pressure) making sure there are no burrs or protrusions on the flat backside of the head (your sealing surface). Install the plug and your done.|||
+|Measure the heads on the old and new plug, grind the new one if needed. ((photos by Jordan 1200 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2068069&page=9))|||
+|{{:techtalk:evo:engmech:timing_plug_fix_3_by_jordan1200.jpg?direct&200|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:engmech:timing_plug_fix_4_by_jordan1200.jpg?direct&200|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:engmech:timing_plug_fix_6_by_jordan1200.jpg?direct&200|}}|
 ====== Installing the Plug ======
+  * Torque value under factory conditions: torque value 10-15 ft/lbs ((jordan1200 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2068069&page=9)) with a dry plug. However, the torque should be adjusted to suit your 'current conditions'. If you have added thread dressing, Teflon tape or have existing warp-age or damaged threads, lower the torque some (maybe by 1/3 or so).
   * The threads can strip easily so be careful with it. Clean the threads for both the plug and the hole, thread the plug into the case using fingers only, then snug up to "firm plus a little more". Regarding the "just snug": you have to trust this stuff. Too tight and you got a problem. The plug has fine threads that resist loosening from vibration. "Trust" is the key word.((IronMick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1988386&highlight=timing+hole+plug)) ((IronMick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=41695&highlight=timing+hole+plug))
   * The plug and the case threads are different metals and torque will usually always side towards the metal on the plug. This leaves the aluminum case threads more vulnerable to damage from over-torque.
@@ Line 26: / Line 40: @@
   * The foregoing is under the assumption the engine is assembled. This would obviously not be as big of an issue with the engine out and the case split. Repairs of the timing inspection hole are much easier for you or most machine shops without the flywheel in the way or concerns of metal shavings getting into the engine.
 ===== Chasing the Threads =====
-See also the [[techtalk:ref:notes01#cross_threading|warped or damaged thread repair]] section of the Sportsterpedia.
+See also the [[techtalk:ref:notes12|warped or damaged thread repair]] section of the Sportsterpedia.
   * A tap and a die is normally used to chase the threads in the case and on the plug respectively back to their original shape / cleanliness and usually done with plenty of good cutting oil. \\ However, for this application, fluidity can be detriment to the cause. With the small amount of threads on the plug and the imminent danger of getting cut shavings (swarf) into the engine case thru the timing hole, it is best to use thick lube or even axle grease to lube the tap to chase the case threads. \\ While chasing the threads, your following the existing 'centered' thread pattern. ((Hippysmack http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2068069&page=3)) \\ You only have to run the tap in far enough to clear the length of the plug, not to the end of the case threads. \\
@@ Line 110: / Line 124: @@
 |  Straight threads in the case. Same drag on bore gauge - front to back. No taper ((photos by Hippysmack))  ||
 |{{:techtalk:evo:engmech:timing_inspection_hole_pic5_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&400|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:engmech:timing_inspection_hole_pic17_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&400|}}|
+|App. diameter of machined outer face ((photo by Hippysmack))|
+|{{:techtalk:evo:engmech:timing_inspection_hole_pic6_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&400|}}|
 |Notice the plug doesn't go all the way into the end of the case threads ((photos by Hippysmack))|Flywheel sits close to the back of the hole ((photos by Hippysmack))|

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