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techtalk:evo:transfinal01 [2023/12/07 11:51] ixl2relax [Belt Sizes & Part Numbers] |
techtalk:evo:transfinal01 [2024/01/09 01:56] (current) hippysmack |
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| **40227-93** is 61T SILVER | **40227-93** is 61T SILVER | ||
| - | **40246-91** is a casting number - These casting numbers are on both early, 1991-1999, and late, 2000-2003, Sportster 61 tooth x 1-1/8" pulleys. The offset is the same for early and late but The early and late are not interchangeable; the early has a 2" center hole, the late is 2-3/16". There are adapters available so you can use a late (2-3/16") on an early wheel (2") , but the early does not fit the late. You can tell the late pulley visually by looking at the machined bosses for the mounting bolts. The late model bosses are intruded by the center hole and do not show completely round. The early pulleys either have no bosses or the bosses are completely round. The early pulleys are silver, the late are silver or black, from the factory.((Sirrom1 - http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2005973)) | + | **40246-91** is a casting number - These casting numbers are on both early, 1991-1999, and late, 2000-2003, Sportster 61 tooth x 1-1/8" pulleys. The offset is the same for early and late but The early and late are not interchangeable; the early has a 2" center hole, the late is 2-3/16". There are adapters available so you can use a late (2-3/16") on an early wheel (2") , but the early does not fit the late. You can tell the late pulley visually by looking at the machined bosses for the mounting bolts. The late model bosses are intruded by the center hole and do not show completely round. The early pulleys either have no bosses or the bosses are completely round. The early pulleys are silver, the late are silver or black, from the factory.((Sirrom1 - https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-transmission-clutch-primary-secondary-drive/188245-rear-sprocket?t=2005973)) |
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| | For 1991-2003 the sprocket flange is away from the engine. But, there\\ are spline differences between 1991-1994 and 1995-2003. | For 2004-later the sprocket flange is near the engine. | | | For 1991-2003 the sprocket flange is away from the engine. But, there\\ are spline differences between 1991-1994 and 1995-2003. | For 2004-later the sprocket flange is near the engine. | | ||
| - | | {{:techtalk:evo:transfinal:finaldrivesprocket-1992-erik.jpg?400|}}((photo by Erik http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=472579)) | {{:techtalk:evo:transfinal:finaldrivesprocket-2005.jpg?382|}} | | + | | {{:techtalk:evo:transfinal:finaldrivesprocket-1992-erik.jpg?400|}}((photo by Erik https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-electrical/sportster-motorcycle-electrical-and-ignition/70015-neutral-lamp-staying-on?t=472579)) | {{:techtalk:evo:transfinal:finaldrivesprocket-2005.jpg?382|}} | |
| Pre-2004, on the outer flanged side, the center mounting splines are relatively flush with the flange face. But, on the engine side of the sprocket, the center mounting splines are recessed from the edge of the belt drive face. On 2004-later, the flange is on the engine side (with recessed splines there) and the mounting nut and lock plate are on the outer, flangeless, side. | Pre-2004, on the outer flanged side, the center mounting splines are relatively flush with the flange face. But, on the engine side of the sprocket, the center mounting splines are recessed from the edge of the belt drive face. On 2004-later, the flange is on the engine side (with recessed splines there) and the mounting nut and lock plate are on the outer, flangeless, side. | ||
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| * 3) With the flange outboard, the early version Final Trans Drive Sprocket cannot be properly aligned with the 2004+ Rear Wheel Sprocket. If the belt rides against the flange, overheating may occur and the flange (press fitted) can separate from the sprocket. | * 3) With the flange outboard, the early version Final Trans Drive Sprocket cannot be properly aligned with the 2004+ Rear Wheel Sprocket. If the belt rides against the flange, overheating may occur and the flange (press fitted) can separate from the sprocket. | ||
| - | This [[http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1931756|XLForum Thread]] was used for collecting the above information. Thanks to those who contributed, especially Sirrom1. | + | This [[https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-transmission-clutch-primary-secondary-drive/179795-front-pulley-mods-final-drive?t=1931756|XLForum Thread]] was used for collecting the above information. Thanks to those who contributed, especially Sirrom1. |
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| | | 40591-07 | 1200 | 137 Tooth | | | | 40591-07 | 1200 | 137 Tooth | | ||
| | 2011-2022 | 40591-07 | 883/1200 | 137 Tooth | | | 2011-2022 | 40591-07 | 883/1200 | 137 Tooth | | ||
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| ====== Belt Twist for Carrying Spare Belt ====== | ====== Belt Twist for Carrying Spare Belt ====== | ||
| - | | According to Sportsterpaul (of the XLForum) it is worth carrying a spare\\ belt for any long trip. When you replace a high mileage belt, save the\\ old one for a spare.((http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=14871 - Post#600)) Make a note of the rotation direction.\\ \\ Then, carefully, do a double twist of the belt to stack it three layers high.\\ It keeps a nice big radius (not damaging the belt) and packs well.\\ \\ **If your present belt should break, having a spare belt with you\\ can work for a roadside repair, without fully removing your tire.** \\ \\ The suggested way to replace the belt((http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=174407)) is to remove the lower bolt from\\ the shock and swing it out of the way. Loosen the axle nut and the axle\\ adjusters so the tire can move forward.\\ \\ Slip the belt up and over the belt guard, over the front sprocket, then onto\\ the rear sprocket from behind.\\ \\ Push the tire back and readjust the adjusters & tighten the axle.\\ Then align the shock and replace the lower bolt. | {{:techtalk:evo:transfinal:drivebelt-doubletwist-compact-sportsterpaul.jpg?400|}} | | + | | According to Sportsterpaul (of the XLForum) it is worth carrying a spare\\ belt for any long trip. When you replace a high mileage belt, save the\\ old one for a spare.((https://www.xlforum.net/showthread.php?t=14871 - Post#600)) Make a note of the rotation direction.\\ \\ Then, carefully, do a double twist of the belt to stack it three layers high.\\ It keeps a nice big radius (not damaging the belt) and packs well.\\ \\ **If your present belt should break, having a spare belt with you\\ can work for a roadside repair, without fully removing your tire.** \\ \\ The suggested way to replace the belt((https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-transmission-clutch-primary-secondary-drive/46792-drive-belt-alternatives-for-emergencies?t=174407)) is to remove the lower bolt from\\ the shock and swing it out of the way. Loosen the axle nut and the axle\\ adjusters so the tire can move forward.\\ \\ Slip the belt up and over the belt guard, over the front sprocket, then onto\\ the rear sprocket from behind.\\ \\ Push the tire back and readjust the adjusters & tighten the axle.\\ Then align the shock and replace the lower bolt. | {{:techtalk:evo:transfinal:drivebelt-doubletwist-compact-sportsterpaul.jpg?400|}} | |
| | You could also shortcut the procedure (if you dare to do so carefully). Don't loosen the axle or adjusters. Just remove the lower bolt from the shock\\ & swing it out of the way. Slip the belt up and over the belt guard, allowing it to be low behind the rear sprocket (not on it). Then slip the belt over\\ the front sprocket & start it (as far as possible) over the rear sprocket rim at the bottom. Pull it up snug to stay in place. Then roll the bike forward\\ so the belt pulls up around the rear sprocket and 'slips' into place. Replace the shock & bolt. The old belt will likely be a little loose from wear\\ and will 'slip on' in this way as a 'temporary' fix until you can replace it with a new belt. Or, do it the longer way if you have any concerns. || | | You could also shortcut the procedure (if you dare to do so carefully). Don't loosen the axle or adjusters. Just remove the lower bolt from the shock\\ & swing it out of the way. Slip the belt up and over the belt guard, allowing it to be low behind the rear sprocket (not on it). Then slip the belt over\\ the front sprocket & start it (as far as possible) over the rear sprocket rim at the bottom. Pull it up snug to stay in place. Then roll the bike forward\\ so the belt pulls up around the rear sprocket and 'slips' into place. Replace the shock & bolt. The old belt will likely be a little loose from wear\\ and will 'slip on' in this way as a 'temporary' fix until you can replace it with a new belt. Or, do it the longer way if you have any concerns. || | ||
