A number of 1972 Super Glide and Sportster models were produced with the front wheel bearing lock ring (11035) installed backwards which can result in the front wheel to be loose or the bearing (9009) to lock up. The retaining ring is flat on one side and beveled on the other and used on wheel hubs from 1964-1972 to hold the bearing in the hub. Affected Sportster VINs were (3A or 4A) 39624H2 to 50531H2. Some of the motorcycles affected were caught and corrected at the factory and affected dealers were notified also. But in case some of these motorcycles were already sold to customers, the MoCo treated it as a safety defect in accordance with the National Motor Vehicle Safety laws. The dealers were to remove all suspect front wheels and inspect the retaining ring and bearing for damages at a reimbursed cost of $2.10 for labor and handling each and reinstall the retainer with the flat side toward the bearing (beveled side out). ¹⁾

• From September 20, 1966 through the 1969 model season, a rubber tube flap (43148-67) was installed on the rear (steel wheel only) of Sportsters before the tube and tire were installed. ²⁾
• This new tube flap was also recommended as a retro fit to earlier model Sportsters. Consequently, the ’59-’69 FSM includes the installation of this flap with no specification of year model used on. However, this new flap did not make it into the 57-67 Parts Catalog or the 68 Supplement Catalog. It first appeared in the 1969 supplement Catalog.
• This is a wider rubber piece than the standard rim strip that extended from bead to bead and all the way around the rim. It rode between the tube and the tire at the bead area and between the tube and the rim at the spoke areas. This change was made as a safety precaution to provide greater protection against tube wear caused by the tire bead edge rubbing on the tube at this point under heavy operating conditions such as off rode or maximum accel / braking conditions.
• The use this rubber flap was ended with the 1969 year models with the introduction of the 1970 year model taper beaded rims and tires.

The MoCo experienced an increase in wheel spoke breakage on front and rear (FL & FLH models) and rear only (FX, FXE, XL & XLCH models), 16“ & 18” only. ³⁾

• A 5% failure rate was predicted. As a precautionary measure, HD issued a safety defect for Sportster engine numbers (3A or 4A) 24439H5-48750H5
• The remedy was to notify all customers to bring in their bikes to the dealership for testing. The dealer was to tap all spokes to check for proper tension, tighten nipples as needed to produce a uniform metallic sound when tapped. Any broken spokes while tightening required the whole set to be replaced.
• If no damage was found, the dealer had to tighten and true the spokes (which doesn't require pulling them off the bike).

The procedure for lacing 16 inch wheels changed to make them easier to lace in production. The relationship of the spoke flanges on the wheel hubs changed to match the new lacing pattern. Rims, spokes and nipples did not changed. ⁴⁾

• With the new style wheels:
  • The inner spoke pairs on opposite sides of the wheel cross each other. The outer spokes on opposite sides of the wheel cross each other.
  • Pick any outside spoke hole and sight straight across the hub. The first spoke hole to the right of the line of sight is an outside spoke hole.

• With the old style wheels:
  • The inner spokes on both sides of the wheel angle in the same direction. All outer spokes angle in the opposite direction.
  • Pick any outside spoke hole and sight straight across the hub. The first spoke hole to the right of the line of sight is an inside spoke hole.

• The problems associated with drum brake rear hubs depends on your definition of what a problem is to you. If you have reoccurring problems with wheel bearing failure, brake performance or chain life, this info maybe helpful in tracking down the cause. ¹⁷⁾
• In getting familiar with hub the differences over the production years.
• Common to all hubs:
  • All models used the same single row bearing on left side.
• All bearings referred to below are the right side.

• 1952-1954 models: ¹⁸⁾
  • Used the asymmetric flange hub (smaller spoke flange on left side).
  • Torrington needle bearing (9011).
  • Used the grease shield assembly between right bearing and brake backing plate.
  • This shield is same design as the swingarm Timken shields.

• 1955-E1958 models: ¹⁹⁾
  • Used the 1st symmetric flange hub.
  • No bearing change.
  • Used the grease shield assembly between right bearing and brake backing plate.

• L1958-1962 models: ²⁰⁾
  • Same hub as previously used.
  • U the double row 'duplex' ball bearing (9010).
    • This is basically two bearings in one.
  • Used the grease shield assembly between right bearing and brake backing plate.

• 1963-1965 models: ²¹⁾
  • Same hub as previous.
  • Used two separate single bearings (9008) & (9009) stacked up.
  • Grease shield is no longer used.

• 1966-1972 models: ²²⁾
  • The brake side hub flange was made thicker at the bolt mounting area.
  • Longer drum lugs were used.
  • No bearing change.

• 1973-1978 models: ²³⁾
  • Some time between 1973 & 1975, brazing got replaced by welded construction.
  • No bearing change.

In summary, there were 3 hubs and 3 different right side bearings setups from 1952-1978.

This is the L1958-1962 setup: 24)

This is two pics in one. The 63-65 is the top half and the 66-78 is the bottom: 25)

• In the above pics, you see everything that assembles in between the swingarm legs, (i.e. the chain adjusters, backing plate, and axle spool spacer). The dashed lines represent the chain position.
• What you don't see is the tin spool that covers the inner bearing spacer which was left out because it's not part of the structure and it's job is to take up space so you don't have to fill the entire hub up with grease.

• Regarding bearing issues.
• The most common of all hub complaints is the outer right side bearing being loose in the hub. This is very common on '66→ hubs but not as common '63-'65 and non existent on → '62.
• This loose bearing is never a problem in itself. It won't leave you stranded.
  • The reasons it happens are many from;
    • The bearing bores are not machined on the same center line. They are not concentric from one side of hub to the other. This misalignment imposes movement between the bear OD and the hub bore. That works the bearing loose by stressing the hub material (this kind of sloppy machine work is 'par for the course' in many aspects of these hubs). Some hubs are better than others with this. Earlier hubs were better than later ones.
    • Forces exerted on hub tube during acceleration. The hub consists of 3 pieces, (2) - spoke flanges and (1) - center tube. This is more complicated. The tube ends up flexing in such a way that the material surrounding the outer bearing is deformed.
• Go back to the 2nd pic. The added meat on the drive side flange was incorporated because the earlier hubs would crack thru the thinner flange near where the flange met the tube. The upgrade stopped the cracking but didn't reduce the forces that cracked the hubs.

with this added rigidity a new problem started showing up. you guessed it- loosening outer drive side bearing fit. all this is connected to the force the drive chain exerts to the flange . (this was finally 'addressed' around 76 by increasing the press fit on the right side bearing set. this 'fix' resulted in shortening the life of the left side bearing. we will get to this later.)

on a disc brake bike the sprocket is flat or almost flat. where it connects to the hub there is flange. under that flange is a bearing. all this is very close to being directly in line with the chain pull. not so for our drum brake bikes. our flange is moved 1-1/2“ off the pull line. our sprockets are cantilevered. so if you stood facing forward, over the rear axle of your bike lookin down you will visualize that as the chain pulls it also wants to twist the flange (and drum/sprocket) counterclockwise. this twisting of the thin flange would crack it after enuff flexing.

this wasnt cool. a rear hub that separates into 2 pieces is gonna put you on the pavement. hd did the right thing by addin the extra meat. even if it meant (witch it did) that this extra meat now transferred that twisting to the hub tube where it would work the outer bearing loose, well thats a reasonable tradeoff. loose bearing beats loose collarbone every time.

you jump on the throttle. now you got the hub being pulled forward by the drive chain, in addition to the far right side of hub gettin tweaked farther forward by the counterclockwise flex. and it aint done yet. all this wants to spin the tire on the macadam. friction here drives the entire bike forward by also driving the hub forward. except for the weight of the rotating rear wheel assy the entire weight of the bike with you on it is gettin pushed forward thru the fit of 3 little ball bearings in the hub.

like any other load carrying bearing assm our rear axle/hub assm is alive. it moves around under load. alot in our case. (they moves around from heat too but thats not much of a factor here). early on in the development of ball bearings it was discovered that if you affix two or more bearing rigidly to an assy the bears will likely fail. if you relaxed the fit so only one bearing in a set was rigidly attached to both the stationary (axle in our case) and rotating (hub) members and let the others 'float' the life span of the assy was increased exponentially. you can see this all over our bikes. both hubs generator trans door magneto crank shaft

so the light press fit required to allow the float on the right side did nothing to combat the bearing coming loose. but it did give a long working assm. with no side effect other than a loose outer bearing.

then around 76 for some god forsaken reason the factory abandoned good engineering and titened up the press fit for the right side bearing set. kiss the float good bye.

and just as it was 100 yrs prior the assm as a whole didnt last as long as before. now the left side single bearing got overloaded because the tight fit doubles on the right bullied it into submission.

earlier i said the whole assy flexes alot. transmitted thru the hub, the axle gets the forces too. as the axle flexes the whole bad scene snowballs.

look at the 2nd pic again where the naked arrow is. thats where the aluminum back plate butts to the bearing inner race. that race will and does plow rite into the soft back plate when the axle flexes. thats not the best scene either.

now look at the 62< pic at the same area. much better. puttin the the L58-62 bearing, center spacer and shield into a sweat brazed 66-72 hub give the best bolt together setup.

(Based on Ronnie's Microfiche) unless noted otherwise

FRONT AXLE

1979-1985 - 3/4” Front Axle
43623-78 - Sleeve, bearing spacer - 4.564“ (Violet)
43624-78 - Sleeve, bearing spacer - 4.550” (Pink)
43625-78 - Sleeve, bearing spacer - 4.536“ (Gold)

REAR AXLE

1979-1985 - 3/4” Rear Axle
41563-77 - 3/4“ Axle shank w/ 1-1/16” Hex Head (with 5/16“-18 Nut w/ 1-1/16” Hex Head, — Lock Washer, Washer)²⁶⁾
9052 —– Bearing (Timken Tapered Roller)

• 1979 to 1981

43620-78 Spacer - between bearings - 3.937“ (Red)²⁷⁾
43621-78 Spacer - between bearings - 3.951” (Green)²⁸⁾
43622-78 Spacer - between bearings - 3.923“ (Blue)²⁹⁾

• Early 1982

43601-78 Spacer - between bearings - 4.420” (with flanges)³⁰⁾
43602-78 Spacer - between bearings - 4.434“ (with flanges)³¹⁾
43603-78 Spacer - between bearings - 4.448” (with flanges)³²⁾

• Late 1982-1985

43604-78 Sleeve, bearing spacer - 4.420“ (without flanges) (Orange)³³⁾
43605-78 Sleeve, bearing spacer - 4.434” (without flanges) (Yellow)³⁴⁾
43606-78 Sleeve, bearing spacer - 4.448“ (without flanges) (White)³⁵⁾

Click on drawing to enlarge:

Drawing by Flying Monkey of the XLFORUM 39)

• If your unsure of which hub spacer you need , the best way to find out is to mock up your wheel / hub and do some measuring: ⁶⁰⁾

1. Install outer races into the hub, make sure they're fully seated. Don't install any seals yet.
2. Clamp the axle in a vise vertically, threaded end up.
3. Put axle spacer onto axle. (doesn't really matter which one)
4. Slide 1 bearing onto the axle. (no grease or oil in the bearing)
5. Put hub/wheel onto the axle.
6. Slide bearing spacer onto the axle.
7. Slide the other cone onto the axle.
8. Put a spacer onto the axle that's long enough to reach the axle threads and still leave enough room to put the axle nut on.
9. Put the axle nut on and snug it up. (not too tight yet)
10. Lift the rim/hub and see if you have any end play.
    1. If you have too much, the spacer is too long and a shorter spacer is needed. You can try and find a shorter spacer or shorten the one you have. (a lathe is the best way to shorten it).
    2. If you don't have any play, the spacer is too short. Add shims until you get just a little play.
11. Once you have a little end play, torque the axle nut to 60ft/lbs and check end play again. Use shims to get your desired end play (shown in the FSM).
12. When you have the correct end play you can either: use with the spacer and shims that you have in there, or have a single spacer machined to the combined length of the spacer and shims.

See also Factory Tire Information
All front wheels are the same from '74-'77 ⁶¹⁾

Front Wheel 1957-1985

See also Factory Tire Information
All rear wheels 55-78 will interchange. ¹²⁰⁾

Rear Wheel 1957 - 1985

Click on a picture to enlarge it.

19“ front (43522-77) & 18” rear (41037-77) 188)

1971 front and rear (Taper Base) rims from an XLCH 189)

• 43005-70 steel 18“ steel spool rear drum
• 43008-70 aluminum 18” steel spool rear drum
• 43002-70 steel 19“ '64-72 style front drum
• 43010-70 aluminum 19” '64-72 style front drum
• 42998-74 (250 C) aluminum 19“ aluminum hub front disc (made in Italy)
• 43018-73 steel 19” aluminum hub front disc

• HD issued a bulletin in June of 1978 regarding tire fitment on 1000cc, 1200cc and 1340CC models for proper matching of tires and rims. ¹⁹⁰⁾
  • “For the personal safety of the motorcycle rider, tires and inner tubes must be correctly matched to the wheel rims. Mismatching tires, tubes and rims may result in damage to the tire bead during mounting or may allow the tire to slip on the rim damaging the tube and causing rapid tire deflation. In addition, using tires and tubes other than those specified may adversely affect motorcycle stability”.
  • Tires:
    • Use only tube type tires with inner tubes on all Harley-Davidson wheels. Tubeless type tires will not seat properly. Protective rubber rim strips must be used on laced (wire spoke) wheels.
    • 16“ (seven spoke cast) wheel requires a center valve tube (40553-78) while all other 16” wheels use a side valve tube (40550-77). Tires were inter­changeable between cast and laced (wire spoke) wheels.
    • 18“ tires and tubes were not interchangeable between cast and laced (wire spoke) wheels. The bead diameter of the MN90-18 tire was app. 0.075” (app. the thickness of a nickel) larger than the 4.25-18T tire.
    • 19“ used the same size tube for both cast and laced (wire spoke) wheels but the tires were not interchangeable. The MJ90-19 tire also had a larger bead diameter.

• Rim size and contour are cast or stamped into exterior surface of rim.
• Example: T19x2.50 CO DOT. “T” indicates the rim conforms to 'Tire and Rim Association' standards, 19 is the nominal diameter of the rim in inches measured at the bead center diameter, 2.5 is the width of the bead seat measured in inches, CO designates the rim contour, DOT means the rim meets Dept. of Motor Vehicle Standards. ¹⁹¹⁾
• See also Factory Rear Rims and Factory Front Rims
• See Tire 101 for decoding sizes, conversion, cross reference charts, etc.

• Tapered bead rims, both steel and aluminum, were used on 70's model Sportsters. The taper was at the 'normally flat' area from the inside bead seat corner and the shelf edge at the drop towards the drop center. The metal 'shelf' tapered toward the center with a safety hump just before the drop down. It looks like it was a 'special package' buy from Goodyear with the rim included since you couldn't buy the tires to properly fit the rims anywhere else but them. ²⁰⁷⁾
  • The special “C-Section” rims are identified by the following numbers stamped inside the rim:
    • Steel rims: Front 43003-70/19 x 2.50C, Back 43004-70/18 x 2.50C ²⁰⁸⁾
    • Aluminum rims: Front 43010-70/2.50C-19, Back 43008-70/2.50C-18 ²⁰⁹⁾