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--- techtalk:ref:svcproc9a [2024/05/02 01:40]
hippysmack ↷ Links adapted because of a move operation
+++ techtalk:ref:svcproc9a [2024/05/02 02:10] (current)
hippysmack [1975 XLCH Transmission Assembly]
@@ Line 196: / Line 196: @@
 Actually I'd take it pretty easy on the trans for your first couple rides and make sure I went back and retightened a handfull of bolts after a few hot/cold cycles of the motor. I hope you found this thread both entertaining and informative. I know I sure had a blast doing it as well as learning a lot. Maybe it will inspire some of you to write a little something about your own project. Now get out there and enjoy your ironhead whether you're going out for a ride...turning some wrenches.....planning some future mods or just daydreaming about past rides!!
+----
+**Questions**: \\
+A few pertaining questions are noted below from this thread on the XLF. \\
+You can [[https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/85677-transmission-assembly-tutorial-w-pics?t=657134|Click Here]] to read the entire thread on the XLForum.
+  * LOOSEE THE 79 AMF: Is there any way you can do a price sheet w/ #'s of all the things you purchased to complete your rebuild? I know it's a lot to ask. But by the looks of it all you damn near replaced everything.
+  * scottericsonon: Well, I kinda fell into a deal on Ebay and was able to buy a COMPLETE trans with all the Andrews gears and shafts there. I reused the shift forks etc. out of that trans and only bought a couple bearings off of my local indy. I had him look over all the trans parts too and got the go-ahead from him on all the parts. Like I said, I just swapped everything onto my trap door so I didn't have any alignment issues with my cases. They were all line bored from the factory so you want to make sure that that's right. IF I wouldn't have lucked into this trans, the 4 gears that I had needed for my trans would have been almost $400 + shift forks bearings etc. To REALLY do it right with all new Andrews gears and shafts,new bearings etc figure about a thousand bucks. If you don't have a decent indy and have to order parts online, debrix cycles http://www.debrix.com/ are probably about the cheapest. There's different part numbers for 1973-1978 and 1979-1984 but everything in your V-twin catalog is available from debrix just punch in the VT part number in the search bar.
+  * bayshorecs: When you install the clutch plates, there are 3 (I think) "slots" in the steel disks. Should all of these slots line up throughout the clutch pack or does that not matter? Going through the clutch on my new project, they are not lined up. Not sure it that is right or not.
+  * scottericsonon: I'm not sure it matters. When I put mine back together, I just put em in and haven't had any trouble with it. They're probably just so oil can get into/drain out of the pack.
+  * Ferrous Head: No, it's mot necessary for them to line up in any fashion. Clutch packs get surprisingly hot during use. The metal plates will heat up quite a bit and the slots are "expansion joints" - much like you see in concrete. They stop the plates from warping which would eventually lock your clutch pack solid.
+  * K Beggs:Do you/can you stack the washers between the C/S low and C/S third to achieve the .038"-.058" clearance? I have the .100" washer in there now and run only .011"-.012" clearance. If I stack a .066" and a .075", I can get the .038"-.058". But, are there problems by doing this?
+  * Dr Dick: For 73-up, speedo drive cs 1st = 1 washer, no speedo cs 1st = 2 washers.
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