Differences

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--- techtalk:evo:oil01 [2019/12/17 14:21]
hippysmack [Oil Pressure Switch]
+++ techtalk:evo:oil01 [2020/04/19 05:43]
hippysmack [Oil Pressure Switch]
@@ Line 508: / Line 508: @@
 |Oil switch on 88 model ((photo by kevmic28 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=678083))|Oil switch position on 99 model ((photo by hellhound of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=4429187))|Oil switch position on 04 model ((photo by hellhound of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=4429187))|
 |{{:techtalk:evo:oil:oil_pressure_switch_on_88_model_by_kevmic28.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:oil:oil_pressure_switch_on_99_sportster_by_hellhound.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:evo:oil:oil_pressure_switch_on_04_sportster_by_hellhound.jpg?direct&300|}}|
+==== Installation ====
+Torque:5-7 ft/lbs. \\
+**Caution**: __DO NOT tighten the oil pressure switch too tight__. \\
+It will either strip the threads in the filter housing or crack the filter housing. \\
+If you don't have access to a torque wrench or can't get one to fit in there, use a "hand tight plus a little" approach when tightening the switch.
+You can also clamp a nut in a vise if needed, install a bolt and tighten it to 5-7 ft/lbs. \\
+Then use a open/box end wrench to feel the point where it turns. \\
+Then you have a bench mark 'feel' for how tight to turn the pressure switch with the same type wrench. \\
+This one got tightened too much and cracked the filter housing.
+Don't over tighten to try and stop a leak. \\
+It doesn't take much oomph to seal the pressure switch. \\
+Don't use silicone on the threads. Thread tape may break off and enter the filter or the engine. \\
+You should be able to stop a leak from the switch threads without any thread sealer. \\
+But thread sealer (Loctite, plumbing pipe dope or other) will also work. \\
+If you used the proper torque and it still leaks oil, you may need to pull the switch and filter and look for a crack in the housing. \\
+Pull the switch and the filter so you can see both the housing and the hole threads. \\
+It only takes a little more than needed to crack the housing. \\
+The switch threads are tapered. Turned too far in, the taper widens the hole and expands the aluminum around the hole. \\
+The hole is near the end of the filter pad. \\
+With little surface area between the hole and the end of the housing, that is the weakest part and where cracks will appear. \\
+If yours has cracked, it'll need to be welded. The crack will only get worse with vibration. \\
+The thing about welding is it causes war-page.  Once it's welded, the threads for the switch will probably need to be reconditioned as the hole may warp. \\
+If so, you can try and chase the threads with a tap. \\
+You may have to go with a threaded bushing (bigger threads into the housing with smaller threads on the other end) to add the switch back. \\
+Also the main purpose for the filter pad is the machined flat surface for the filter. \\
+It will need to be checked for flatness after welding so the filter don't leak. \\
+Also check the threads in the hole. \\
+Too much torque will damage aluminum threads pretty fast and to different degrees. \\
+Clean the filter mount surface and verify there is no crack and then inspect the threads for the switch. \\
+The thread pitch in the housing is 1/8" NPS (non tapered). You can run a tap into the threads and try to straighten them if needed. \\
+This filter housing was cracked due to too much torque being applied while tightening the oil pressure switch. \\
+{{:techtalk:evo:oil:cracked_oil_filter_housing_by_vagrant318.jpg?direct&400|}} ((photo by vagrant318 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?p=5819049#post5819049)) \\
 \\

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