Differences

This shows you the differences between two versions of the page.

--- techtalk:ref:tools123 [2018/07/26 03:31]
hippysmack [Beam Type Torque Wrenches]
+++ techtalk:ref:tools123 [2020/04/28 22:23]
hippysmack
@@ Line 12: / Line 12: @@
-  * **While applying torque**, always use slow even motions. Applying torque too fast leads to fooling the torque wrench (and / or your eyes) before torque is actually reached. Of course, this may not be as big of an issue on cover bolts as it would be on head bolts. Establish a pattern to follow every time to condition yourself not to make a mistake when it's counted.
+  * **While applying torque**, always use slow even motions. Applying torque too fast leads to fooling the torque wrench (and / or your eyes) before torque is actually reached. Establish a pattern to follow every time to condition yourself not to make a mistake when it's counted.
   * The clicker type torque wrench can click too fast or you can end with a temporary visual mistake with a beam wrench ((hippysmack from the XLFORUM  http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1959533)) ((Article by Oldrump1 from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1959533))
   * The 1/4" clicker will go way beyond torque when used too fast. By the time you hear the click, your still turning which could result in damaged bolts, bolt heads and even cracking the piece your working on.
@@ Line 83: / Line 83: @@
 |{{techtalk:ref:tools:torque-wrench-lever_1_by_hopper.jpg?direct&400|}} ((photos by Hopper of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=395586&page=2))|{{techtalk:ref:tools:torque-wrench-lever_2_by_hopper.jpg?direct&400|}}  |
 ^This application is used to adapt a 1/2" drive socket for use with a 3/4" drive torque wrench. Really! ((photos by Hopper of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=395586&page=2))^^
-===== Usage / Applying Torque=====
-Proper torque procedures were used to initially build your bike. Skipping any of the advice below should be done at your own risk. Many engine tear-downs are the result of too much torque (or hunkering down) on a nut or bolt. Don't let it be you.
-  * **Start all of the fasteners in a component before you tighten any of them**...not even hand tight. Any misalignment of the part can side load the last fastener enough to prevent it starting or promote cross threading. ((Jollly Rogers from the XLFORUM  http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1959533))
-  * **By hand, all dry bolts should run in rather easily**. If not, there may be trash/ debris caught up in the threading (which can alter you reaching proper torque values). Turn all bolts in sequence by hand until snugged.
-  * **If you're using thread dressing** (oil, loctite / anti seize, etc.), these will induce drag on the bolt(s). You can use a socket, without the wrench, to turn the bolts to snug by hand. You will also need to reduce the final torque on your fasteners since thread dressings will add pre-load to the threads. This pre-load is added on top of your final torque. You can use the [[techtalk:ref:tools123#wet_torque_value_chart_for_lubed_threads|wet charts]] below as a guide to decide how to adjust your final torque. This will vary on how much and what type dressing is used on the threads as well as proper use of the torque wrench.
-  * **Align each bolt** chamfer with it's corresponding threaded hole and counter rotate the fastener to the tightening direction a few degrees until you feel the threads "jump", that indicates the threads are aligned to start in sync.
-  * **Tighten (to snug) all of the bolts the same** way around your piece in a cross pattern to ensure evenness throughout.
-  * **Find the torque specs for your application** and divide that number by three.
-  * **You now have three different torque values**: Unless instructed otherwise by the FSM, start your cross pattern in the center and then move towards the left and then towards the right.
-    * **First number** (lowest number) w / cross pattern over the entire number of fasteners on the piece.
-    * **Second number** repeat the same cross pattern starting with the same bolt you began with on the first pass (all bolts).
-    * **Final pass** (target torque value) repeat the same cross pattern starting with the same bolt you began with on the first pass (all bolts).
-  * **Lastly**, go back around with the final torque to make sure everything is even. At this point, your mainly insuring that you didn't miss a bolt when making the rounds. It's better to know now rather when your on the road.
-===== A Word on Torque and Re-using Damaged Threads =====
-  * There are times when threads are known to be warped / damaged but will be used anyway for different reasons. It is a good idea to reduce the torque used on fasteners in this instance in an effort to save the threads until a proper repair can be made. Thread dressings (anti-seize, Loctite etc.) may help to keep the fastener from walking out due to vibration.
-  * Don't make the mistake of over-tightening ((Dr Dick)) just to say you are at factory torque spec. You'll have to use your own judgment for how tight is too tight. Sometimes (snug up to “firm plus a little more”) ((IronMick)) goes a long way.
-====== General Torque Specs ======
-  * Torque specs are usually given in a range (60-70 ft / lbs for example). The fastener should be torqued to the higher figure initially. Then on future torque 'checks', use the lower figure. This allows you to tell if the fastener has maintained needed torque without 'breaking' the bond which keeps it from backing off. ((Wizwill of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=27701&highlight=torque+wrench&page=13))
-  * In lieu of having torque specs at hand, below are general torque specs for different fasteners. However, nothing takes place of manufacturer torque specs for your specific applications. The torque numbers reflect pressures the bolts can take which doesn't take into account the amount of clamp force for the piece(s) you are clamping (or an aluminum engine). So, it's hard to trust the charts that give a torque values for bolts of a certain size, and then do not specify if the bolt is going into steel or aluminum. With steel bolts going into aluminum (engines), 'ya gotta be careful. ((IronMick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2048954&highlight=torque+wrench&page=2))
-  * Good engineering books, covering fasteners, will describe the situation in full (bolt diameter, thread pitch, bolt coatings, lubrication used etc.). A lot more information than most of us ever use. Also, in the back of some motorcycle manuals you sometimes will find charts listing common bolts and torque settings. Best to take them with a grain of salt, however. ((Ferrous Head of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2048954&highlight=torque+wrench&page=2))
-  * When using oiled fasteners, you should take into account the added pre-load from the oil before applying advertised torque to avoid shearing off the bolt head or cracking/ breaking the piece your working on. You can use the Wet Chart below to calculate a torque value with the added pre-load.
-===== Dry Torque Specs ft/lb =====
-  * Convert ft/lb to N*m by multiplying by 1.3558 ((Clymer 2004-2013 HD Sportster Repair Manual))
-  * Fastener strength of SAE bolts can be determined by the bolt head grade markings. Unmarked bolt heads are usually mild steel. More grade markings indicate higher strength fasteners. For instance, grade 5 may have three hash marks from the center out to the edge, grade 7 may have five hash marks and grade 8 should have 6 hash marks.((Clymer 2004-2013 HD Sportster Repair Manual))
-  * These are only generalized specs that do not take into account the difference in steel and aluminum threading. See your FSM or instruction manual for specific torque values per application.
-^Size/Grade^1/4"^5/16"^3/8"^7/16"^1/2"^9/16"^5/8"^3/4"^7/8"^1"^
-|SAE 2|6|12|20|32|47|69|96|155|206|310((Clymer 2004-2013 HD Sportster Repair Manual))|
-|SAE 5|10|19|33|54|78|114|154|257|382|587((Clymer 2004-2013 HD Sportster Repair Manual))|
-|SAE 7|13|25|44|71|110|154|215|360|570|840((Clymer 2004-2013 HD Sportster Repair Manual))|
-|SAE 8|14|29|47|78|119|169|230|380|600|700((Clymer 2004-2013 HD Sportster Repair Manual))|
-===== Wet Torque Value Chart for Lubed Threads =====
-If bolt threads are lubricated with light oil or anti-seize compound, the torque required to achieve the proper bolt tension is reduced. Below are charts with the proper "wet" torque values for type of bolt used: All charts property of and used by permission from Allied Systems Company.
-{{techtalk:ref:tools:wet_torque_chart_page_1.jpg?400|}}
-{{techtalk:ref:tools:wet_torque_chart_page_2.jpg?400|}}
-{{techtalk:ref:tools:wet_torque_chart_page_3.jpg?400|}}
-{{techtalk:ref:tools:wet_torque_chart_page_4.jpg?400|}}
-{{techtalk:ref:tools:wet_torque_chart_page_5.jpg?400|}}
-{{techtalk:ref:tools:wet_torque_chart_page_6.jpg?400|}}
-{{techtalk:ref:tools:wet_torque_chart_page_7.jpg?400|}}
-{{techtalk:ref:tools:wet_torque_chart_page_8.jpg?400|}}
-{{techtalk:ref:tools:wet_torque_chart_page_9.jpg?400|}}

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