Article by Screw Loose Dan of the XLFORUM ¹⁾

Note: The XR1200 brakes will NOT work with wire / laced wheels.
That was tried on a 1200N by Sportytrace and the caliper would NOT fit.
Also custom wheels need to be measured first before deciding to use these calipers.

The actual install was rather easy. Really just a matter of unbolting parts and bolting other parts back on.
If you are familiar with doing brakes (either on a bike or car), this will be a breeze.
Plan on having PLENTY of rags on hand and don't let the brake fluid get on anything you care about (like paint).

Parts:

• Prices were current as of the article date (4-25-2010).
  
• 42943-08 Caliper, Frt Lft $144
• 42944-08 Caliper, Frt Rt $144
• 42941-08 Master Cylinder Silver lever $73 (42941-10 should be the same but have a black lever as the 2010 XR's come with black levers)
• 41736-04 Caliper Banjo (x2) - Can be reused from old setup $4 each
• 41737-04 Master Cylinder Banjo - Probably can be reused from old setup $5
• 44358-00* Front Rotor, floating (x2) $96 each
• 41743-04 Master Cylinder crush washer (x2) $2 each
• Goodridge copper crush washers 10mm - Calipers $4/box
• Goodridge Ebony brake hose (measure for your handlebar/setup) ~ $55 total
• Goodridge 592-03-M12CH This is one of the few banjo bolt fittings I could find to fit the Master Cylinder. $18
• Drag Spec. Brake Tee (from J&P - here) $15
• Russel 1/8″ 90° male pipe fitting, AN-3 male end (from J&P here…but Goodridge and other make similar) $8
• Rags…and more rags
• Brake cleaner
• The rotors are standard floating rotors for XL. You may choose from any that will fit the XL.
  The XR uses the same as the XL (just different patterns).
  The ones listed are the Vivid Black Floating rotors for XL's.
  You are presumably doing this to improve your brakes, so don't be cheap and use stock rotors…get floating ones.

Tools:

• 9/16“, 3/4”, 5/16“, 10mm and 12mm sockets
• T40 Torx socket
• 3/16” and 5/16“ hex drives (could use allen wrenches)
• Ratchets
• 3/8”, 7/16“, 1/2” wrenches
• Screwdrivers
• Loctite
• Vacuum pump (to bleed the brakes)

Tools 2)	Stock calipers 3)

Removing the master cylinder. Turn signal light (4 mm allen) and mirror (1/2“ hex) were removed first. 4)

Add a piece of cardboard or something to slightly “squeeze” the lever to prevent the lever from destroying the brake switch during disassembly. Switch housing loosened (T25 Torx) and master cylinder clamp bolts removed (T27 torx) 5)

Brake line clamps removed from triple trees. A short bungee cord to hold the master cylinder out of the way to remove the calipers. 6)		12 point socket used to remove the caliper bolts. 7)

Remove stock caliper assembly, pull axle out while catching the spacers and remove the tire 8)

An impact wrench works for loosening the Torx bolts on the rotor to remove it from the rim. A good sturdy corner of a wall helps to stabilize the wheel while you bang on it. 9)		Installing the new rotors. Start all the bolts by hand then snug them up in a criss-cross pattern. Torque to spec (16-24 ft-lbs). 10)

Next put the wheel back on the bike. It helps to have the lift height so you don't need to lift the wheel much (if at all) when putting the axle back in.
The small spacer goes on the side with the pinch bolt and the larger spacer goes on the side with the axle nut.
You should make sure there is anti-seize compound on the axle prior to assembly.