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--- techtalk:ref:engctl01a [2019/12/15 20:44]
hippysmack [New parts wiring]
+++ techtalk:ref:engctl01a [2021/12/06 17:51]
ixl2relax ↷ Page name changed from techtalk:ref:engctl01c to techtalk:ref:engctl01a
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 [[:techtalk:menu|{{  :techtalk:gototechnicalmenu.jpg|}}]]
-====== REF: Engine Control - Sub-01a ======
+====== REF: Engine Control - Sub-01A ======
-====== Sportster Sport 1200S '98-'03 Ignition Replacement  ======
+====== '98-'03 Sportster Sport 1200S Dynatek D2Ki-3P Ignition Conversion ======
+Article by steelworker of the XLFORUM ((http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1382357)) \\
 <blockquote>Changing to an after market ignition system is something that will probably come to all 1200S owners eventually as stock and SE ignition components become more difficult to source. ((steelworker of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1382357)) **PLEASE NOTE**: by doing this mod, you will lose certain functions from the 1200S. Specifically, the diagnostic (fault code) function and the related check-engine light on the speedo, which are both tied into the stock ignition module. The frame-mount Sportster electrical system is so basic (and this modification will make it even more simple), that a diagnostic sytem with data-link can be considered more or less redundant. \\
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 ====== Timing the ignition ======
+Before I started on this - before I bought the module even - I phoned Dynatek's very helpful tech support line for their recommendations for twin-plug engines, which do not need as much total advance as single-plug applications. They suggested to set the static timing with the crank at 4 degrees after top dead centre (rather than at TDC) compression stroke on the front cylinder. This coincides with the TDC mark in line with the right hand edge of the inspection hole (i.e. about to disappear past it). This may make dynamic timing of the motor with a timing light difficult or impossible. Having an assistant will make this part a lot easier. \\
+With the back wheel off the ground, the transmission in 5th gear (rock the rear wheel backwards and forwards while pulling up on the gear lever) and both plugs on the left hand side removed, get your assistant to rotate the rear wheel forwards until you can see (through the front cylinder spark plug hole) the inlet valve opening, then continue until the valve closes and the piston appears again and is near the top of its stroke. This ensures you are on compression stroke, rather than exhaust stroke. \\
+Now remove the allen head plug from the inspection hole below the base of the barrels on the right hand side. Look for the TDC timing mark (a vertical line, not the twin dots) to appear in the window as your assistant slowly nudges the wheel forwards (it doesn't take much effort, and you may end up going backwards and forwards a few times) and is in line with the right hand side of the inspection hole as you look at it. \\
+With a flat-blade screwdriver, loosen the two pillar bolts holding the Dynatek module in place, and rotate it slowly to cause the red LED to turn off and on. Find the point where the LED just turns off while rotating the module in a clockwise direction. Tighten the two pillar bolts to hold the module in position. Static timing is now set. Shift the transmission into neutral again, and replace the spark plugs. \\
+The switches on the module should be set to suit your engine's particular state of tune. I'll give the settings I'm using below for information, but they may not suit a stock motor. \\
+These are the Dynatek instructions: \\
+{{:techtalk:ref:engctl:98_s_model_dyna_iginition_swap_67_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by steelworker of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1382357&page=2))
+{{:techtalk:ref:engctl:98_s_model_dyna_iginition_swap_68_by_steelworker.jpg?direct&300|}} ((photo by steelworker of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1382357&page=2)) \\
+My settings: \\
+Switch 1 OFF - Normal VOES mode, should be set here for most street motors. \\
+Switch 2 ON / Switch 3 OFF - Curve 2 - a suitable starting point for most street motors. \\
+Less initial advance, which should help with the slightly higher compression ratio of the 1200S, and with stage 2 XB heads I'm running higher compression than stock. \\
+Switch 4 OFF / Switch 5 ON - 7,000rpm rev limit, which is ok for the valve train I'm running, but with a stock 1200S I'd stick to 6,000rpm (6,500rpm absolute MAXIMUM). \\
+Switch 6 ON - single fire mode, which you should use if using this ignition set-up, with the coils wired as I have done. \\
+VERDICT: \\
+Delighted. On an initial road test last weekend it felt very good. I think my old SE module had been deteriorating for a while, but now the bike has certainly got its punch back, and no signs of pinking even when I tried to ride in a way that might make it do so. Unless you've been hoarding stock or SE ignition components, this conversion is something that all 1200S owners are likely to have to do at some point, and I think it's worth doing before it becomes necessary. I may replace the stamped ignition rotor with a machined ignition rotor from NRHS for the sake of insurance. It might have been nice to keep the bank angle sensor, but I could not see a way of making that work with the Dynatek module, and I'm not really bothered about it. \\
+It's impossible to say if there was any noticeable performance difference, as there are other variables - better coils, and a new ignition module instead of the stock (and, before that, deteriorating SE) modules. It does feel and sound a lot crisper, it starts easier, and seat of the pants dyno says it goes a lot better. There is certainly no noticeable on/off as the VOES switches - just smooth power all the way. In theory, a MAP sensor is a better unit than a VOES, allowing a range of advance curves instead of the on/off VOES switch, but any loss there has been swallowed up by gains from the other components. \\
+You can buy the cable and software to be able to make custom advance curves (it costs another ninety something dollars). But the Dynatech tech support guy advised that the range of curves available on the switches would be sufficient for most bikes. The programmable software would enable, for instance, setting the static timing at TDC and then playing around with the total advance, rather than setting static timing at just past TDC as I have done. When uploading a curve from the programmable software, it overrides the switches on the module, which can later be re-enabled if desired by reconnecting and "turning off" the uploaded program. The '98-'03 1200S models all had the same ignition system so it will work on all of them. \\
+One thing I had issues with was the ground wire for the programming cable. The ring lug that was put on that cable is cheap and had an intermittent connection that took me a long time to figure out (and I ended up stripping the battery connection). The only time it matters is when you try to connect it to a computer. If the ground wire is not perfect, the software will never "see" the module. ((Airbozo of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1382357&page=3)) \\