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| - | ====== REF: Shop Notes and Tips ====== | + | ====== REF: Service Procedures 10 ====== |
| ====== 4 Speed Transmission Removal / Inspection / Installation ====== | ====== 4 Speed Transmission Removal / Inspection / Installation ====== | ||
| This section is not meant to be a replacement to the FSM. It is meant as a compliment to the FSM or added information with pics that are not in the manual. Always buy an FSM and a Parts Catalog to help you along your maintenance path. The Haynes and Clymer brand service manuals for the most part will suffice and they generally have more pics than the HD Service manual. But, end result, there are discrepancies in all of them including the HD parts and service manuals. | This section is not meant to be a replacement to the FSM. It is meant as a compliment to the FSM or added information with pics that are not in the manual. Always buy an FSM and a Parts Catalog to help you along your maintenance path. The Haynes and Clymer brand service manuals for the most part will suffice and they generally have more pics than the HD Service manual. But, end result, there are discrepancies in all of them including the HD parts and service manuals. | ||
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| ===== Gear Spacing ===== | ===== Gear Spacing ===== | ||
| - | * Measuring the spacing is tedious. With the trans assembled and fixed in a vice by the bottom edge of the trap door, ensure that none of the parts make contact with the vice while you are turning the gears. Try not to drop the trans on the floor too many times while setting this up To proceed, the trans must be firmly set up so that you can run it thru the gears. ((IronMick from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1981137&page=10)) | + | * Measuring the spacing is tedious. With the trans assembled and fixed in a vice by the bottom edge of the trap door, ensure that none of the parts make contact with the vice while you are turning the gears. Try not to drop the trans on the floor too many times while setting this up To proceed, the trans must be firmly set up so that you can run it thru the gears. ((IronMick from the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/184708-first-time-reassembling-transmission/page10?t=1981137&page=10)) |
| - | * To measure the gear spacing consistently hold the assembly in such a way that the gears do not move around while you are measuring. You have to press inward lightly on the end of the shafts or on the outermost gear, then ensure that they stay in place while you proceed. Hold the two parts that you are measuring so that they do not move while you are measuring. But do not be too aggressive with this keeping things from moving - you want to simulate what it will be like in a running setup. You do not want to cram them together, just do it enough that every time you do it you will get the same result. ((IronMick from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1981137&page=10)) | + | * To measure the gear spacing consistently hold the assembly in such a way that the gears do not move around while you are measuring. You have to press inward lightly on the end of the shafts or on the outermost gear, then ensure that they stay in place while you proceed. Hold the two parts that you are measuring so that they do not move while you are measuring. But do not be too aggressive with this keeping things from moving - you want to simulate what it will be like in a running setup. You do not want to cram them together, just do it enough that every time you do it you will get the same result. ((IronMick from the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/184708-first-time-reassembling-transmission/page10?t=1981137&page=10)) |
| - | * So you need at least three hands, possibly more, one or two to hold the assembly from moving and changing the spacing while you are working, and another one or two to manage the feeler gauge. It can be done with just two though ((IronMick from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1981137&page=10)) | + | * So you need at least three hands, possibly more, one or two to hold the assembly from moving and changing the spacing while you are working, and another one or two to manage the feeler gauge. It can be done with just two though ((IronMick from the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/184708-first-time-reassembling-transmission/page10?t=1981137&page=10)) |
| - | * There are only a few options in setting the spacing. I believe that the best you can do is to get somewhere in the range. The shift forks must be in place - one of the options to adjust spacing is to replace the shift forks with different sizes. ((IronMick from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1981137&page=10)) | + | * There are only a few options in setting the spacing. I believe that the best you can do is to get somewhere in the range. The shift forks must be in place - one of the options to adjust spacing is to replace the shift forks with different sizes. ((IronMick from the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/184708-first-time-reassembling-transmission/page10?t=1981137&page=10)) |
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| **Mainshaft** | **Mainshaft** | ||
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| - | * On the mainshaft, measure between the tips of the dogs on 4th and the face of 2nd; and measure between the face of 3rd and the protrusion from 2nd. ((IronMick from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1981137&page=10)) | + | * On the mainshaft, measure between the tips of the dogs on 4th and the face of 2nd; and measure between the face of 3rd and the protrusion from 2nd. ((IronMick from the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/184708-first-time-reassembling-transmission/page10?t=1981137&page=10)) |
| - | * When setting mainshaft clearances, shims have no effect on fork setting so this can be done in either order ((doodah man of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1920201&highlight=speed+transmission&page=7)) | + | * When setting mainshaft clearances, shims have no effect on fork setting so this can be done in either order ((doodah man of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/178668-homebrew-ironhead-transmission-teardown-thread/page7?t=1920201&highlight=speed+transmission&page=7)) |
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| **Countershaft** | **Countershaft** | ||
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| * On the countershaft measure the space between the tips of the dogs on 1st and the face of 3rd; and measure between the face of second and the protrusion from 3rd. | * On the countershaft measure the space between the tips of the dogs on 1st and the face of 3rd; and measure between the face of second and the protrusion from 3rd. | ||
| - | * When setting up clearances on the countershaft, especially if your current shift fork isn't getting you into tolerance and needs to be replaced with a different offset... ((DR Dick from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1257259)) | + | * When setting up clearances on the countershaft, especially if your current shift fork isn't getting you into tolerance and needs to be replaced with a different offset... ((DR Dick from the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/125248-about-the-trans?t=1257259)) |
| - | * Do the fork spacing 1st, then shim for end play because on the counter shaft there are shims that go on both sides of c-shaft low gear (17t). ((DR Dick from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1257259)) | + | * Do the fork spacing 1st, then shim for end play because on the counter shaft there are shims that go on both sides of c-shaft low gear (17t). ((DR Dick from the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/125248-about-the-trans?t=1257259)) |
| - | * The shims (2 shims on 73> type gear, one on 72< speedo type gear) on left (shaft) side of 17t gear will affect fork spacing. So, you can use them to your advantage with forks. ((DR Dick from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1257259)) | + | * The shims (2 shims on 73> type gear, one on 72< speedo type gear) on left (shaft) side of 17t gear will affect fork spacing. So, you can use them to your advantage with forks. ((DR Dick from the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/125248-about-the-trans?t=1257259)) |
| - | * When changing them for fork spacing after c-shaft has been shimmed in case will require you to re-shim in case for end play because you have changed the deck height of the c-shaft assembly. ((DR Dick from the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1257259)) | + | * When changing them for fork spacing after c-shaft has been shimmed in case will require you to re-shim in case for end play because you have changed the deck height of the c-shaft assembly. ((DR Dick from the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/125248-about-the-trans?t=1257259)) |
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| ===== Countershaft and Oiler Plug ===== | ===== Countershaft and Oiler Plug ===== | ||
| * **There were two different countershafts made for the Sportster 4 speed tranny**. In the first picture below, the left one is used on both Ironhead and Evo models from late 1984 until 1990, ((1979-1985 HD Sportster Parts Catalog pg 51))((1986-1990 HD Sportster Parts Catalog pg 37)) the last year of the 4 speeds. | * **There were two different countershafts made for the Sportster 4 speed tranny**. In the first picture below, the left one is used on both Ironhead and Evo models from late 1984 until 1990, ((1979-1985 HD Sportster Parts Catalog pg 51))((1986-1990 HD Sportster Parts Catalog pg 37)) the last year of the 4 speeds. | ||
| * The shaft to the right in the first pic shows an Andrews version of the earlier style ('58-early '84)((HD Sportster Parts Catalog (99451-78B) pg 63)) ((1979-1985 HD Sportster Parts Catalog pg 51)) countershaft with the oiler hole in a hollow shaft ((WI duker)). | * The shaft to the right in the first pic shows an Andrews version of the earlier style ('58-early '84)((HD Sportster Parts Catalog (99451-78B) pg 63)) ((1979-1985 HD Sportster Parts Catalog pg 51)) countershaft with the oiler hole in a hollow shaft ((WI duker)). | ||
| - | * **The oiler plug** in the trapdoor catches oil and gravity feeds it through the counter shaft to 1st gear. It will get some amount of splash lube without it, but not as good of a jet of oil as if coming from the plug. ((doodah man http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1959795&highlight=tranny)) The oiler plug sticks outside of the case 7/16". ((IronMick)) | + | * **The oiler plug** in the trapdoor catches oil and gravity feeds it through the counter shaft to 1st gear. It will get some amount of splash lube without it, but not as good of a jet of oil as if coming from the plug. ((doodah man https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/181946-oiler-plug-in-1988-sportster-tranny?t=1959795&highlight=tranny)) The oiler plug sticks outside of the case 7/16". ((IronMick)) |
| - | * **Before installing the oiler plug**, set it off to the side until after you've set / checked your final countershaft endplay. otherwise it'll be in your way. ((doodah man of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1920201&highlight=speed+transmission&page=8)) | + | * **Before installing the oiler plug**, set it off to the side until after you've set / checked your final countershaft endplay. otherwise it'll be in your way. ((doodah man of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/178668-homebrew-ironhead-transmission-teardown-thread/page8?t=1920201&highlight=speed+transmission&page=8)) |
| - | * **The oiler plug should be a tight interference fit**. It should go in and stay in with the engine running and vibrating and carrying on. Upon dis-assembly, many are found to be loose or rather the hole has probably been worn from the aluminum being smashed in and out of a few times without heating the aluminum trapdoor to expand it. This is why you should ALWAYS heat aluminum engine and gearbox casings, wheel hubs etc, with a propane torch before removing or installing bearings. Doing it cold works once, maybe twice, then the hole is worn out. ((Hopper of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=475201&highlight=oiler+plug)) | + | * **The oiler plug should be a tight interference fit**. It should go in and stay in with the engine running and vibrating and carrying on. Upon dis-assembly, many are found to be loose or rather the hole has probably been worn from the aluminum being smashed in and out of a few times without heating the aluminum trapdoor to expand it. This is why you should ALWAYS heat aluminum engine and gearbox casings, wheel hubs etc, with a propane torch before removing or installing bearings. Doing it cold works once, maybe twice, then the hole is worn out. ((Hopper of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/70300-countershaft-oiler-plug-loose?t=475201&highlight=oiler+plug)) |
| - | * **To fix a loose oiler plug**, you can take the plug to a machine shop and get them to knurl it. That will increase the diameter by a few thousandths. Then re-install it with Loctite. I would use the red, it is the strongest. But you will then need to use a propane torch to break the Loctite to get it back out. ((Hopper of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=475201&highlight=oiler+plug)) | + | * **To fix a loose oiler plug**, you can take the plug to a machine shop and get them to knurl it. That will increase the diameter by a few thousandths. Then re-install it with Loctite. I would use the red, it is the strongest. But you will then need to use a propane torch to break the Loctite to get it back out. ((Hopper of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/70300-countershaft-oiler-plug-loose?t=475201&highlight=oiler+plug)) |
| - | * You can also peen the hole to retain the oiler. ((ryder rick http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1920201&highlight=speed+transmission&page=8)) | + | * You can also peen the hole to retain the oiler. ((ryder rick https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/178668-homebrew-ironhead-transmission-teardown-thread/page8?t=1920201&highlight=speed+transmission&page=8)) |
| - | * **Late '84 and up trap door does not include a countershaft oiler plug**. When installed in this newer trapdoor in older applications, it may easily hit and scrubb the back of the stator due to being too long. It will either need to be machined down for your clearance measurements or the old style trapdoor must be used. ((Aticle by lilwillywilly of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1814835&highlight=oiler+plug)) | + | * **Late '84 and up trap door does not include a countershaft oiler plug**. When installed in this newer trapdoor in older applications, it may easily hit and scrubb the back of the stator due to being too long. It will either need to be machined down for your clearance measurements or the old style trapdoor must be used. ((Article by lilwillywilly of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/169174-l84-85-countershaft-oiler-plug?t=1814835&highlight=oiler+plug)) |
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| |{{:techtalk:ih:transfinal:four_speed_countershafts_by_wi_duker.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ih:transfinal:4_speed_countershaft_by_nhps.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ih:transfinal:oiler_plug_in_1977_tranny_by_billytoppless.jpg?direct&300|}}| | |{{:techtalk:ih:transfinal:four_speed_countershafts_by_wi_duker.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ih:transfinal:4_speed_countershaft_by_nhps.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{:techtalk:ih:transfinal:oiler_plug_in_1977_tranny_by_billytoppless.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
| - | | 4 Speed Trans Countershaft comparison ((photo by WI duker of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1959795&highlight=tranny&page=2))| Early style HD 4 Speed Trans Countershaft ((photo by NHPS of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1981137&highlight=speed+trans&page=3))| Oiler Plug in '77 tranny ((photo by billytoppless of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=715410&highlight=oiler+plug)) | | + | | 4 Speed Trans Countershaft comparison ((photo by WI duker of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/181946-oiler-plug-in-1988-sportster-tranny/page2?t=1959795&highlight=tranny&page=2))| Early style HD 4 Speed Trans Countershaft ((photo by NHPS of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/184708-first-time-reassembling-transmission/page3?t=1981137&highlight=speed+trans&page=3))| Oiler Plug in '77 tranny ((photo by billytoppless of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-drivetrain/sportster-motorcycle-transmission-clutch-primary-secondary-drive/89263-oiler-plug?t=715410&highlight=oiler+plug)) | |
| |{{:techtalk:ih:transfinal:1977_oiler_plug_and_countershaft_needle_roller_by_freewheeler.jpg?direct&300|}}| | |{{:techtalk:ih:transfinal:1977_oiler_plug_and_countershaft_needle_roller_by_freewheeler.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
| - | | Oiler Plug & Countershaft Needle Roller Bearing ((photo by Freewheeler of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1920201&highlight=speed+transmission&page=8)) | | + | | Oiler Plug & Countershaft Needle Roller Bearing ((photo by Freewheeler of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/178668-homebrew-ironhead-transmission-teardown-thread/page8?t=1920201&highlight=speed+transmission&page=8)) | |
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| ===== Mainshaft & Countershaft Needle Bearings & Race ===== | ===== Mainshaft & Countershaft Needle Bearings & Race ===== | ||
| ==== Removal ==== | ==== Removal ==== | ||
| - | You should ALWAYS heat aluminum engine and gearbox casings, wheel hubs etc, with a propane torch before removing or installing bearings. Doing it cold works once, maybe twice, then the hole is worn out.((Hopper of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=475201&highlight=oiler+plug)) | + | You should ALWAYS heat aluminum engine and gearbox casings, wheel hubs etc, with a propane torch before removing or installing bearings. Doing it cold works once, maybe twice, then the hole is worn out.((Hopper of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/70300-countershaft-oiler-plug-loose?t=475201&highlight=oiler+plug)) |
| + | * **Bearing Race Removal / Installation**: | ||
| + | * To remove a badly worn mainshaft bearing race, remove the retainer ring (two thin blade screw drivers, one to get an end lifted/started and the other to get under the ring and work it around, and a lot of patience) ((doodah man https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/173373-mainshaft-bearing-race-snap-ring-1-me-0?t=1861447&highlight=mainshaft+bearing)) and washer. Discard the retainer ring. Heat case surrounding the bearing hole and drift new race inward from the outside of the case. Press new race in until shoulder is against case inner surface. Check specs for correct fit of mainshaft right side roller bearing. Install washer and new retainer ring. ((1970-1978 HD Sportster FSM pg 4-27)) | ||
| - | * **Bearing Race Removal / Installation**: | ||
| - | * To remove a badly worn mainshaft bearing race, remove the retainer ring (two thin blade screw drivers, one to get an end lifted/started and the other to get under the ring and work it around, and a lot of patience) ((doodah man http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1861447&highlight=mainshaft+bearing)) and washer. Discard the retainer ring. Heat case surrounding the bearing hole and drift new race inward from the outside of the case. Press new race in until shoulder is against case inner surface. Check specs for correct fit of mainshaft right side roller bearing. Install washer and new retainer ring. ((1970-1978 HD Sportster FSM pg 4-27)) | ||
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| * **Countershaft Bearings**: | * **Countershaft Bearings**: | ||
| - | * For the countershaft bearings, select a socket (and extension) that just fits inside where the bearing is seated. Drive old closed end (and new) bearing from right to left with the socket/extension and a hammer using only light blows. The new bearing's max install depth is flush with outside of case (min depth is .030" left outside of case). For the trap door countershaft bearing, carefully remove the oiler plug without damaging the "snout". Drive bearing out in the same manner with socket against printed end of bearing. Install new bearing 1/16"-3/32" below flush with inside edge of door. ((doodah man of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1995846&highlight=speed+transmission)) | + | * For the countershaft bearings, select a socket (and extension) that just fits inside where the bearing is seated. Drive old closed end (and new) bearing from right to left with the socket/extension and a hammer using only light blows. The new bearing's max install depth is flush with outside of case (min depth is .030" left outside of case). For the trap door countershaft bearing, carefully remove the oiler plug without damaging the "snout". Drive bearing out in the same manner with socket against printed end of bearing. Install new bearing 1/16"-3/32" below flush with inside edge of door. ((doodah man of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/186740-4-speed-transmission-needle-bearing-removal?t=1995846&highlight=speed+transmission)) |
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| * **Clutch Gear Bearing**: | * **Clutch Gear Bearing**: | ||
| - | * Clutch gear bearing requires removing large snap rings, lightly hammer the clutch gear out with a small piece of wood between hammer and shaft. You can even thread the large nut on so it is on flush with the end of the shaft for support. Then the bearing needs to be pressed off. New bearing gets pressed onto the clutch gear until it is flush to the gear and install it into trap door. ((doodah man of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1995846&highlight=speed+transmission)) | + | * Clutch gear bearing requires removing large snap rings, lightly hammer the clutch gear out with a small piece of wood between hammer and shaft. You can even thread the large nut on so it is on flush with the end of the shaft for support. Then the bearing needs to be pressed off. New bearing gets pressed onto the clutch gear until it is flush to the gear and install it into trap door. ((doodah man of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/186740-4-speed-transmission-needle-bearing-removal?t=1995846&highlight=speed+transmission)) |
| - | * An alternative for the needle bearing in the clutch gear: Find a washer that's the same size as the bearing and cut two flat places in the edge of the washer so it will pass through the bearing, turn it flat against the inside of the bearing and use a threaded piece of 5/16 rod through the bearing and washer, put nuts on each end of the rod and use a larger socket to pull it into. ((Dasrite of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1995846&highlight=speed+transmission)) | + | * An alternative for the needle bearing in the clutch gear: Find a washer that's the same size as the bearing and cut two flat places in the edge of the washer so it will pass through the bearing, turn it flat against the inside of the bearing and use a threaded piece of 5/16 rod through the bearing and washer, put nuts on each end of the rod and use a larger socket to pull it into. ((Dasrite of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/186740-4-speed-transmission-needle-bearing-removal?t=1995846&highlight=speed+transmission)) |
| ==== Installation ==== | ==== Installation ==== | ||
| - | You should ALWAYS heat aluminum engine and gearbox casings, wheel hubs etc, with a propane torch before removing or installing bearings. Doing it cold works once, maybe twice, then the hole is worn out.((Hopper of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=475201&highlight=oiler+plug)) | + | You should ALWAYS heat aluminum engine and gearbox casings, wheel hubs etc, with a propane torch before removing or installing bearings. Doing it cold works once, maybe twice, then the hole is worn out.((Hopper of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/70300-countershaft-oiler-plug-loose?t=475201&highlight=oiler+plug)) |
| + | **Hopper** | ||
| + | * If you are using a new shaft and race, you will have to line hone or line lap the new race until 23 stock size rollers fit with the correct clearance. Needs to be done in line with the trapdoor bearing. Although someone on here did mention that Jims or someone makes a race that is to size and supposedly does not need line lapping to finish it off. Dunno about that. ((Hopper https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/149229-trans-main-shaft-bearing-replacement-please-help?t=1618827&highlight=tool)) | ||
| + | * Be sure to put the hardened flat washer BETWEEN the rollers and the spring circlip on the outside, or the rollers and the gap in the circlip will make a big mess of themselves. ((Hopper https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/149229-trans-main-shaft-bearing-replacement-please-help?t=1618827&highlight=tool)) | ||
| + | * You can assemble the mainshaft into the bearing without the rest of the tranny attached, then put on the sprocket and nut to hold it in place, then slide in the rest of the tranny. I forget which gear (or is it neutral?) to have the tranny in to make this easiest but if you play with it a bit it is fairly obvious which gear lets the mainshaft loose. ((Hopper https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/149229-trans-main-shaft-bearing-replacement-please-help?t=1618827&highlight=tool)) | ||
| - | **Hopper** | ||
| - | * If you are using a new shaft and race, you will have to line hone or line lap the new race until 23 stock size rollers fit with the correct clearance. Needs to be done in line with the trapdoor bearing. Although someone on here did mention that Jims or someone makes a race that is to size and supposedly does not need line lapping to finish it off. Dunno about that. ((Hopper http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1618827&highlight=tool)) | ||
| - | * Be sure to put the hardened flat washer BETWEEN the rollers and the spring circlip on the outside, or the rollers and the gap in the circlip will make a big mess of themselves. ((Hopper http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1618827&highlight=tool)) | ||
| - | * You can assemble the mainshaft into the bearing without the rest of the tranny attached, then put on the sprocket and nut to hold it in place, then slide in the rest of the tranny. I forget which gear (or is it neutral?) to have the tranny in to make this easiest but if you play with it a bit it is fairly obvious which gear lets the mainshaft loose. ((Hopper http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1618827&highlight=tool)) | ||
| - | * | ||
| - | | ||
| - | | ||
| **trappnman** \\ | **trappnman** \\ | ||
| - | * You aren't going to be able to put them in place, with the tranny in. Be nice if you could, and it would be nice if HD would have fitted a sealed bearing or anything but those damn loose rollers but such is life..... ((trappnman of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1618827&highlight=tool)) | + | * You aren't going to be able to put them in place, with the tranny in. Be nice if you could, and it would be nice if HD would have fitted a sealed bearing or anything but those damn loose rollers but such is life..... ((trappnman of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/149229-trans-main-shaft-bearing-replacement-please-help?t=1618827&highlight=tool)) |
| - | * So try to put the rollers in by, as stated, greasing the race, then one by one putting them in place- adding more grease if needed to hold in place. ((trappnman of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1618827&highlight=tool)) | + | * So try to put the rollers in by, as stated, greasing the race, then one by one putting them in place- adding more grease if needed to hold in place. ((trappnman of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/149229-trans-main-shaft-bearing-replacement-please-help?t=1618827&highlight=tool)) |
| - | * That last roller, will be a tight fit, but you should get it into place. If not, and only after a good hearted effort, go to honing. If needed its going to take a VERY little, so careful as you go. ((trappnman of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1618827&highlight=tool)) | + | * That last roller, will be a tight fit, but you should get it into place. If not, and only after a good hearted effort, go to honing. If needed its going to take a VERY little, so careful as you go. ((trappnman of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/149229-trans-main-shaft-bearing-replacement-please-help?t=1618827&highlight=tool)) |
| - | * As far as oversized rollers- you should have that information from wherever you purchased them from the invoice- if you didn't specify size, they would, I'd think be standard ((trappnman of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1618827&highlight=tool)) | + | * As far as oversized rollers- you should have that information from wherever you purchased them from the invoice- if you didn't specify size, they would, I'd think be standard ((trappnman of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/149229-trans-main-shaft-bearing-replacement-please-help?t=1618827&highlight=tool)) |
| - | * A tip on putting tranny back through rollers (and unless you are a lucky pup, it might take a few tries, so all you can do is curse, and redo the rollers. to make it easier, make it a 2 man job, with one on one side sliding tranny into case- the other with a awl into the shaft hole on the other end to guide it straight. amazing how much easier it goes. ((trappnman of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1618827&highlight=tool)) | + | * A tip on putting tranny back through rollers (and unless you are a lucky pup, it might take a few tries, so all you can do is curse, and redo the rollers. to make it easier, make it a 2 man job, with one on one side sliding tranny into case- the other with a awl into the shaft hole on the other end to guide it straight. amazing how much easier it goes. ((trappnman of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/149229-trans-main-shaft-bearing-replacement-please-help?t=1618827&highlight=tool)) |
| | | ||
| **brucstoudt** | **brucstoudt** | ||
| - | * Actually you can put the 23 mainshaft roller's in with the transmission in from the outside. The outer snap ring must be removed, and then reinstalled, after the roller's are in. I prefer to do it this way. I can SEE that they're all in place. ((brucstoudt of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1618827&highlight=tool)) | + | * Actually you can put the 23 mainshaft roller's in with the transmission in from the outside. The outer snap ring must be removed, and then reinstalled, after the roller's are in. I prefer to do it this way. I can SEE that they're all in place. ((brucstoudt of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/149229-trans-main-shaft-bearing-replacement-please-help?t=1618827&highlight=tool)) |
| * The outer retaining ring is not a snap ring with hole's for plier's that would make it so simple. It's the circlip type with slot's for prying. | * The outer retaining ring is not a snap ring with hole's for plier's that would make it so simple. It's the circlip type with slot's for prying. | ||
| * It's not bad coming out but going back in is tougher. I don't reuse them but I guess it surely wouldn't be the first time. | * It's not bad coming out but going back in is tougher. I don't reuse them but I guess it surely wouldn't be the first time. | ||
| Line 109: | Line 83: | ||
| * Don't run the bearing with zero clearance. It leaves no room for lubricant between rollers and race/shaft. | * Don't run the bearing with zero clearance. It leaves no room for lubricant between rollers and race/shaft. | ||
| * Don't run the rollers crowded so they are jammed up to one another. They will not rotate correctly and will chew the living crap out of the race and shaft. | * Don't run the rollers crowded so they are jammed up to one another. They will not rotate correctly and will chew the living crap out of the race and shaft. | ||
| - | * Make sure you have that hardened flat steel washer between the spring circlip and the mainshaft rollers, otherwise the gap in the circlip chews up the rollers quicktime. ((Hopper http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=968076&highlight=mainshaft+bearing&page=3)) | + | * Make sure you have that hardened flat steel washer between the spring circlip and the mainshaft rollers, otherwise the gap in the circlip chews up the rollers quicktime. ((Hopper https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/107096-mainshaft-bearing-replacement/page3?t=968076&highlight=mainshaft+bearing&page=3)) |
| ==== Mainshaft Needle Bearings ==== | ==== Mainshaft Needle Bearings ==== | ||
| * The standard size for the 23 loose mainshaft rollers is .1562" ((DR DICK of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=3044412&postcount=12)). | * The standard size for the 23 loose mainshaft rollers is .1562" ((DR DICK of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=3044412&postcount=12)). | ||
| - | * Question: When does fitting oversize rollers result in MORE running clearance? ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=4336086&postcount=30)) | + | * Question: When does fitting oversize rollers result in MORE running clearance? ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/147386-main-shaft-needle-bearing/page2?postcount=30#post3155169)) |
| - | * Answer: when the __same quantity__ of oversize rollers are fitted to a 'cageless full compliment bearing'. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=4336086&postcount=30)) | + | * Answer: when the __same quantity__ of oversize rollers are fitted to a 'cageless full compliment bearing'. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/147386-main-shaft-needle-bearing/page2?postcount=30#post3155169)) |
| - | * Below are two true geometric constructions of 23 rollers. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=4336086&postcount=30)) | + | * Below are two true geometric constructions of 23 rollers. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/147386-main-shaft-needle-bearing/page2?postcount=30#post3155169)) |
| - | * 1st one is standard rollers packed into the tightest circle possible. No clearance roller to roller.((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=4336086&postcount=30)) | + | * 1st one is standard rollers packed into the tightest circle possible. No clearance roller to roller.((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/147386-main-shaft-needle-bearing/page2?postcount=30#post3155169)) |
| - | * 2nd one is same but with +.0008 rollers.((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=4336086&postcount=30)) | + | * 2nd one is same but with +.0008 rollers.((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/147386-main-shaft-needle-bearing/page2?postcount=30#post3155169)) |
| - | {{:techtalk:ih:transfinal:23_roller_bearing_comparison_by_dr_dick.jpg?direct&500|}} ((Illustration by Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=4336086&postcount=30)) | + | {{:techtalk:ih:transfinal:23_roller_bearing_comparison_by_dr_dick.jpg?direct&500|}} ((Illustration by Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/147386-main-shaft-needle-bearing/page2?postcount=30#post3155169)) |
| Factory size of: | Factory size of: | ||
| - | Main Race is 1.305 dia.((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=4336086&postcount=30)) | + | Main Race is 1.305 dia.((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/147386-main-shaft-needle-bearing/page2?postcount=30#post3155169)) |
| - | Mainshaft is .991((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.php?p=4336086&postcount=30)) | + | Mainshaft is .991((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/147386-main-shaft-needle-bearing/page2?postcount=30#post3155169)) |
| \\ | \\ | ||
| - | [[:techtalk:menu|{{:techtalk:gototechnicalmenu.jpg|}}]] | + | |
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| ==== 1957-Early 1982 Mainshaft Thrust Washer Roll Pin ==== | ==== 1957-Early 1982 Mainshaft Thrust Washer Roll Pin ==== | ||
| - | {{techtalk:ref:svcproc:roll_pin_hole_by_mosey.jpg?direct|}} ((photo by Mosey of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2009441&highlight=trans)) | + | {{techtalk:ref:svcproc:roll_pin_hole_by_mosey.jpg?direct|}} ((photo by Mosey of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/188715-roll-pin-in-trans-case?t=2009441&highlight=trans)) |
| A roll pin is installed at the twelve o'clock position over the mainshaft hole to keep the spacers from spinning. The spacers on the end of the mainshaft have a tab that would hit the roll pin and lock in. | A roll pin is installed at the twelve o'clock position over the mainshaft hole to keep the spacers from spinning. The spacers on the end of the mainshaft have a tab that would hit the roll pin and lock in. | ||
| Line 141: | Line 114: | ||
| * Roll pin from 1957 - Early 1982 #(600) and is 1/8" dia x 9/16" long. It sticks out 3/16" +/- 1/32" from the alum surface. ((DR DICK http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1284607&page=2)) | * Roll pin from 1957 - Early 1982 #(600) and is 1/8" dia x 9/16" long. It sticks out 3/16" +/- 1/32" from the alum surface. ((DR DICK http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1284607&page=2)) | ||
| - | * Always replace with a new roll pin, use a good thread lock when installing it. ((maghubs http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2009441&highlight=trans)) | + | * Always replace with a new roll pin, use a good thread lock when installing it. ((maghubs https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/188715-roll-pin-in-trans-case?t=2009441&highlight=trans)) |
| - | * NOTE: The mainshaft rollers are NOT lubricated by splash via the static ear washer. There is a curved oil collector on top of the mainshaft bearing that fills with oil being thrown around. The oil is then fed by gravity to the outside of the roller outer race via a hole located between outer case and the mainshaft oil seal. Then oil exits by gravity via the static ear washer. So, oil would still find its way out if it was spinning which questions the static bit of the logic of using the pin. I have run engines with and without the pin, doesn't seem to make much difference. ((thefrenchowl http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?postid=5572177#post5572177)) | + | * NOTE: The mainshaft rollers are NOT lubricated by splash via the static ear washer. There is a curved oil collector on top of the mainshaft bearing that fills with oil being thrown around. The oil is then fed by gravity to the outside of the roller outer race via a hole located between outer case and the mainshaft oil seal. Then oil exits by gravity via the static ear washer. So, oil would still find its way out if it was spinning which questions the static bit of the logic of using the pin. I have run engines with and without the pin, doesn't seem to make much difference. ((thefrenchowl https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/126486-pin-in-case-above-main-shaft-bearing/page2?postid=5572177#post4109429)) |
| === Removing a sheared off roll pin === | === Removing a sheared off roll pin === | ||
| - | * Instead of removing the old one that is sheared off and flush with the case, drill another hole with a drill bit .003" under the pin diameter a few degrees around the bearing on the same radius as the existing pin. Press fit the new pin into the hole. You may want to try this using a scrap piece of metal to determine what size drill bit works best. Your object is to press the pin into a hole so tight that you cannot (easily) pull it out. When you find the correct size drill bit, put a drop of epoxy on the end of the pin then press it into the hole. You don't want loose pins dropping into the transmission. ((piniongear http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1284607)) A new pin (about ~ 1 o'clock) next to the old one.((doodah man http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1284607)) | + | * Instead of removing the old one that is sheared off and flush with the case, drill another hole with a drill bit .003" under the pin diameter a few degrees around the bearing on the same radius as the existing pin. Press fit the new pin into the hole. You may want to try this using a scrap piece of metal to determine what size drill bit works best. Your object is to press the pin into a hole so tight that you cannot (easily) pull it out. When you find the correct size drill bit, put a drop of epoxy on the end of the pin then press it into the hole. You don't want loose pins dropping into the transmission. ((piniongear https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/126486-pin-in-case-above-main-shaft-bearing?t=1284607)) A new pin (about ~ 1 o'clock) next to the old one.((doodah man https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/126486-pin-in-case-above-main-shaft-bearing?t=1284607)) |
| - | * Hand drilling a straight hole is a bit difficult but what I would do is get a piece of wood and drill a straight hole through that using the bit you are going to drill the case with. Make the wood thickness such that the drill extended through it sticks out the same depth you want to drill. Then place the block of wood against the case and this will guide the bit into the aluminum fairly straight and to the correct depth all in one shot. ((piniongear http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1284607)) If the hole isn't dead straight it's not much of a problem. If the hole is over size that's not cool. Drill 3/32" first. Then follow with 1/8". This will help keep the hole size good. Don't drill thru. If you didn't drill deep enough, you can grind some length off the pin after installation. ((Dr Dick http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1284607&page=2)) | + | * Hand drilling a straight hole is a bit difficult but what I would do is get a piece of wood and drill a straight hole through that using the bit you are going to drill the case with. Make the wood thickness such that the drill extended through it sticks out the same depth you want to drill. Then place the block of wood against the case and this will guide the bit into the aluminum fairly straight and to the correct depth all in one shot. ((piniongear https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/126486-pin-in-case-above-main-shaft-bearing?t=1284607)) If the hole isn't dead straight it's not much of a problem. If the hole is over size that's not cool. Drill 3/32" first. Then follow with 1/8". This will help keep the hole size good. Don't drill thru. If you didn't drill deep enough, you can grind some length off the pin after installation. ((Dr Dick https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/126486-pin-in-case-above-main-shaft-bearing/page2?t=1284607&page=2)) |
| * After drilling, you might want to check on the outside of the case to see if a pilot hole came through. | * After drilling, you might want to check on the outside of the case to see if a pilot hole came through. | ||
| - | * Another option is to drill through the pin hole to the outside of the case. Drill the pilot to just under the pin size and drift it out. The hole can be plugged with a machine screw. Also, there is no reason a longer machine screw could act as the stop. There is no loading on the pin so it would not take much to stop the rotation. The only drawback is it will probably fall on the shaft seal flange, but the screw can be applied on the outside of the flange or the flange drilled to allow the head to protrude. If this method is considered, use a allen head screw that is hardened as a regular machine screw is on the soft side. ((bustert http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1284607&page=2)) | + | * Another option is to drill through the pin hole to the outside of the case. Drill the pilot to just under the pin size and drift it out. The hole can be plugged with a machine screw. Also, there is no reason a longer machine screw could act as the stop. There is no loading on the pin so it would not take much to stop the rotation. The only drawback is it will probably fall on the shaft seal flange, but the screw can be applied on the outside of the flange or the flange drilled to allow the head to protrude. If this method is considered, use a allen head screw that is hardened as a regular machine screw is on the soft side. ((bustert https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/126486-pin-in-case-above-main-shaft-bearing/page2?t=1284607&page=2)) |
| - | * Another option when drilling to the outside is to fill the outer access hole with good 'ol JB weld once a new roll pin is installed. ((TwoBobs http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1284607&page=2)) | + | * Another option when drilling to the outside is to fill the outer access hole with good 'ol JB weld once a new roll pin is installed. ((TwoBobs https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/126486-pin-in-case-above-main-shaft-bearing/page2?t=1284607&page=2)) |
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| ==== Mainshaft Endplay ==== | ==== Mainshaft Endplay ==== | ||
| - | * The mainshaft bearing in the trap door slides back and forth between the snap rings. ((ryder rick http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2017578&highlight=trans)) | + | * The mainshaft bearing in the trap door slides back and forth between the snap rings. ((ryder rick https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/189360-transmission-mainshaft-right-side-thrust-washer-sizing?t=2017578&highlight=trans)) |
| - | * When checking mainshaft endplay, you need to hold the bearing in the correct position for your clutch style. There are 3 clutch release styles: ((ryder rick http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2017578&highlight=trans)) | + | * When checking mainshaft endplay, you need to hold the bearing in the correct position for your clutch style. There are 3 clutch release styles: ((ryder rick https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/189360-transmission-mainshaft-right-side-thrust-washer-sizing?t=2017578&highlight=trans)) |
| - Early dry clutch pushes from the right | - Early dry clutch pushes from the right | ||
| - Middle wet clutch pushes from the left | - Middle wet clutch pushes from the left | ||
| - Late wet clutch pulls from the left. | - Late wet clutch pulls from the left. | ||
| - | * If the endplay is set without this in mind all of the clutch release pressure will go against the mainshaft trust washer and turn it blue. The end play you measure will open up when the clutch release moves the trap door bearing over and may cause shifting problems. ((ryder rick http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2017578&highlight=trans)) | + | * If the endplay is set without this in mind all of the clutch release pressure will go against the mainshaft trust washer and turn it blue. The end play you measure will open up when the clutch release moves the trap door bearing over and may cause shifting problems. ((ryder rick https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/189360-transmission-mainshaft-right-side-thrust-washer-sizing?t=2017578&highlight=trans)) |
| - | * Trap door bearing position should also be set when shimming the trans and setting shift fork offsets. ((ryder rick http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2017578&highlight=trans)) | + | * Trap door bearing position should also be set when shimming the trans and setting shift fork offsets. ((ryder rick https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/189360-transmission-mainshaft-right-side-thrust-washer-sizing?t=2017578&highlight=trans)) |
| - | * You want the pressure on the whole clutch assembly pushing in on it. ((randy3934 http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2017578&highlight=trans)) | + | * You want the pressure on the whole clutch assembly pushing in on it. ((randy3934 https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/189360-transmission-mainshaft-right-side-thrust-washer-sizing?t=2017578&highlight=trans)) |
| ==== Countershaft Endplay ==== | ==== Countershaft Endplay ==== | ||
| - | |||
| |{{techtalk:ref:svcproc:countershaft_endplay_1_by_ferrous_head.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{techtalk:ref:svcproc:countershaft_endplay_2_by_ferrous_head.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{techtalk:ref:svcproc:countershaft_endplay_3_by_ferrous_head.jpg?direct&300|}}| | |{{techtalk:ref:svcproc:countershaft_endplay_1_by_ferrous_head.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{techtalk:ref:svcproc:countershaft_endplay_2_by_ferrous_head.jpg?direct&300|}}|{{techtalk:ref:svcproc:countershaft_endplay_3_by_ferrous_head.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
| - | | Mock setup: obviously the box is not in the cases \\ where it needs to be to do the job. But easier for \\ pictures. NOTE ! You may be able to see the dial \\ indicator stem is actually sitting on the countershaft \\ bearing outer race - it needs to be sitting on the end \\ of the shaft here, not on the bearing. ((Photo and article by Ferrous Head of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=395586&page=6))|A closer shot and here you can see the wire (bent) that \\ is used to push and pull on the countershaft. The dial \\ indicator is centered on zero of course before you start \\ pushing and pulling. You can then read the endplay \\ directly from the dial indicator. ((Photo and article by Ferrous Head of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=395586&page=6))|This is the dial indicator mounted on the alloy spacer \\ with the bolt through it. The bolt just screws into the \\ bottom tranny case mount hole on the left case half \\ with the tranny sitting correctly in the engine. You will \\ also need a selection of thrust washers to actually \\ adjust the endplay to get it where it needs to be. ((Photo and article by Ferrous Head of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=395586&page=6))| | + | | Mock setup: obviously the box is not in the cases \\ where it needs to be to do the job. But easier for \\ pictures. NOTE ! You may be able to see the dial \\ indicator stem is actually sitting on the countershaft \\ bearing outer race - it needs to be sitting on the end \\ of the shaft here, not on the bearing. ((Photo and article by Ferrous Head of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/63858-special-tools/page6?t=395586&page=6))|A closer shot and here you can see the wire (bent) that \\ is used to push and pull on the countershaft. The dial \\ indicator is centered on zero of course before you start \\ pushing and pulling. You can then read the endplay \\ directly from the dial indicator. ((Photo and article by Ferrous Head of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/63858-special-tools/page6?t=395586&page=6))|This is the dial indicator mounted on the alloy spacer \\ with the bolt through it. The bolt just screws into the \\ bottom tranny case mount hole on the left case half \\ with the tranny sitting correctly in the engine. You will \\ also need a selection of thrust washers to actually \\ adjust the endplay to get it where it needs to be. ((Photo and article by Ferrous Head of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/63858-special-tools/page6?t=395586&page=6))| |
| |{{techtalk:ref:svcproc:countershaft_endplay_4_by_ferrous_head.jpg?direct&300|}}| | |{{techtalk:ref:svcproc:countershaft_endplay_4_by_ferrous_head.jpg?direct&300|}}| | ||
| - | |The really important bit - the bent wire. ((Photo and article by Ferrous Head of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=395586&page=6))| | + | |The really important bit - the bent wire. ((Photo and article by Ferrous Head of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/63858-special-tools/page6?t=395586&page=6))| |
| - | + | \\ | |
| - | \\ | ||
| - | [[:techtalk:menu|{{:techtalk:gototechnicalmenu.jpg|}}]] | ||
| ====== Transmission Crankcase Repair ====== | ====== Transmission Crankcase Repair ====== | ||
| ===== Trans Corner Reinforcement '54-'72 ===== | ===== Trans Corner Reinforcement '54-'72 ===== | ||
| - | By Dr Dick of the XLFORUM, ((Dr Dick http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1512080)) | + | By Dr Dick of the XLFORUM, ((Dr Dick https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/139355-trans-corner-reinforcement-54-72?t=1512080)) |
| It's common knowledge that '72< bikes may have had their trans corner of right crankcase damaged and then fixed by welding everything back together. Sometimes those repair jobs are good quality, sometimes maybe not so good. | It's common knowledge that '72< bikes may have had their trans corner of right crankcase damaged and then fixed by welding everything back together. Sometimes those repair jobs are good quality, sometimes maybe not so good. | ||
| Line 214: | Line 174: | ||
| * A cross section view of the right crankcase at the countershaft boss. | * A cross section view of the right crankcase at the countershaft boss. | ||
| * The 52-53 is the 1st iteration of the design. Each after that is noted as to the upgrade. | * The 52-53 is the 1st iteration of the design. Each after that is noted as to the upgrade. | ||
| - | {{techtalk:ref:svcproc:trans_case_fix_1_by_dr_dick.jpg?direct&600|}} ((Illustration by Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1512080)) | + | {{techtalk:ref:svcproc:trans_case_fix_1_by_dr_dick.jpg?direct&600|}} ((Illustration by Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/139355-trans-corner-reinforcement-54-72?t=1512080)) |
| - | + | ||
| * And this is the most common mechanism failure (not the only failures, just the most common) | * And this is the most common mechanism failure (not the only failures, just the most common) | ||
| * The red is the broken areas. How long the countershaft continues to spin after this initial case failure determines how much worse the damage will become. | * The red is the broken areas. How long the countershaft continues to spin after this initial case failure determines how much worse the damage will become. | ||
| - | {{techtalk:ref:svcproc:trans_case_fix_2_by_dr_dick.jpg?direct|}} ((Illustration by Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1512080)) | + | {{techtalk:ref:svcproc:trans_case_fix_2_by_dr_dick.jpg?direct|}} ((Illustration by Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/139355-trans-corner-reinforcement-54-72?t=1512080)) |
| * The 73-76 cases are almost immune to this failure. It's rare to see them welded up. They can survive all but the worst case scenario. The 77-79 cases were slightly thinner. They break more often but still are stronger than the 72< design. Then around 1980 you start seeing cases busted badly again. They must be cast of lower quality material. | * The 73-76 cases are almost immune to this failure. It's rare to see them welded up. They can survive all but the worst case scenario. The 77-79 cases were slightly thinner. They break more often but still are stronger than the 72< design. Then around 1980 you start seeing cases busted badly again. They must be cast of lower quality material. | ||
| Line 229: | Line 187: | ||
| * On Late 66>-72 cases this fix can be considered done. Early 66< cases are inherently weaker from the missing .125 fillet. | * On Late 66>-72 cases this fix can be considered done. Early 66< cases are inherently weaker from the missing .125 fillet. | ||
| * The reinforcement rings: | * The reinforcement rings: | ||
| - | {{techtalk:ref:svcproc:trans_case_fix_3_by_dr_dick.jpg?direct|}} ((Illustration by Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1512080)) | + | {{techtalk:ref:svcproc:trans_case_fix_3_by_dr_dick.jpg?direct|}} ((Illustration by Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/139355-trans-corner-reinforcement-54-72?t=1512080)) |
| - | {{techtalk:ref:svcproc:trans_case_fix_4_by_dr_dick.jpg?direct|}} ((Illustration by Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1512080)) | + | {{techtalk:ref:svcproc:trans_case_fix_4_by_dr_dick.jpg?direct|}} ((Illustration by Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/139355-trans-corner-reinforcement-54-72?t=1512080)) |
| * Doing the above is a big help and is advised but at times even with the ring installed, it will still fail as shown in the red pic. | * Doing the above is a big help and is advised but at times even with the ring installed, it will still fail as shown in the red pic. | ||
| * Optionally, you can go to the next level- you weld the ring so the ring becomes part of the case instead of part of the boss. | * Optionally, you can go to the next level- you weld the ring so the ring becomes part of the case instead of part of the boss. | ||
| - | {{techtalk:ref:svcproc:trans_case_fix_5_by_dr_dick.jpg?direct|}} ((Photo by Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1512080)) | + | {{techtalk:ref:svcproc:trans_case_fix_5_by_dr_dick.jpg?direct|}} ((Photo by Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/139355-trans-corner-reinforcement-54-72?t=1512080)) |
| * Note that the welds are small enough that they can be removed to restore the original design. Some guys screw rings to the case with screws thru the .250 thick wall behind the ring instead of welding. | * Note that the welds are small enough that they can be removed to restore the original design. Some guys screw rings to the case with screws thru the .250 thick wall behind the ring instead of welding. | ||
| Line 243: | Line 201: | ||
| * To achieve this fit, the ring usually falls in the tolerance band indicated in the pics. | * To achieve this fit, the ring usually falls in the tolerance band indicated in the pics. | ||
| * If your boss is slightly damaged, shooting for the indicated ring bore size will get you back on the road. | * If your boss is slightly damaged, shooting for the indicated ring bore size will get you back on the road. | ||
| - | * There are many different ways cases have been damaged, and there are many possible ways to fix them (some better suited than others).((Dr Dick http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1512080)) | + | * There are many different ways cases have been damaged, and there are many possible ways to fix them (some better suited than others).((Dr Dick https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/139355-trans-corner-reinforcement-54-72?t=1512080)) |
| - | + | ||
| - | | + | |
| * The replaced corner section or any repair where the weld beads stray off the surface surrounding the bearing bore will warp the case seam as described. I'd like to address this to guys who own bikes that this has been done to because this warpage may be present on your bike. | * The replaced corner section or any repair where the weld beads stray off the surface surrounding the bearing bore will warp the case seam as described. I'd like to address this to guys who own bikes that this has been done to because this warpage may be present on your bike. | ||
| * One of the 'blank' areas is what happens after the fix is done. | * One of the 'blank' areas is what happens after the fix is done. | ||
| Line 263: | Line 220: | ||
| \\ | \\ | ||
| - | [[:techtalk:menu|{{:techtalk:gototechnicalmenu.jpg|}}]] | + | |
| ---- | ---- | ||
| ==== More information ==== | ==== More information ==== | ||
| + | * I have done a set of cases with a thin metal ring made from the outer race for the mainshaft 23rollers. It's I.D. is slightly bigger than the boss. I seem to remember using a 5 thousandth in. shim to close the gap and obtain a press fit, plus stud Loctite to lock it in ((thefrenchowl https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/139355-trans-corner-reinforcement-54-72?t=1512080)) | ||
| + | * For other cases, I've used alloy rings, with a slight vertical cut on the face to ensure the Torrington will receive enough oil... ((thefrenchowl https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/139355-trans-corner-reinforcement-54-72?t=1512080)) | ||
| - | + | {{techtalk:ref:svcproc:sprocket_bore_mod_by_thefrenchowl.jpg?direct|}} ((photo by thefrenchowl https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/139355-trans-corner-reinforcement-54-72?t=1512080)) | |
| - | * I have done a set of cases with a thin metal ring made from the outer race for the mainshaft 23rollers. It's I.D. is slightly bigger than the boss. I seem to remember using a 5 thousandth in. shim to close the gap and obtain a press fit, plus stud Loctite to lock it in ((thefrenchowl http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1512080)) | + | |
| - | * For other cases, I've used alloy rings, with a slight vertical cut on the face to ensure the Torrington will receive enough oil... ((thefrenchowl http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1512080)) | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | {{techtalk:ref:svcproc:sprocket_bore_mod_by_thefrenchowl.jpg?direct|}} ((photo by thefrenchowl http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1512080)) | + | |
| * For most guys with a small garage, welding and machining is not an option and can take the non welding route most of the time as far as cases are concerned if welding is not strictly necessary and can be avoided. | * For most guys with a small garage, welding and machining is not an option and can take the non welding route most of the time as far as cases are concerned if welding is not strictly necessary and can be avoided. | ||
| - | * A nicely light press fit helped with stud loctite will go a long way!!! My above mod on my KHK cases was done some 15 years ago at least, hasn't move a yota, suits me fine!!! But then, the crack was minimal and caught in good time before it got worse... ((thefrenchowl http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1512080)) | + | * A nicely light press fit helped with stud loctite will go a long way!!! My above mod on my KHK cases was done some 15 years ago at least, hasn't move a yota, suits me fine!!! But then, the crack was minimal and caught in good time before it got worse... ((thefrenchowl https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/139355-trans-corner-reinforcement-54-72?t=1512080)) |
| Line 281: | Line 236: | ||
| * Seems like everybody does these a little different. I use a steel ring .0005" tight and install using locktite sleeve retainer (green). And yes,I have never had a problem- Street or strip. I do not like welding on the cases without them being torqued together unless it is absolutely necessary. The green locktite sleeve retainer is some very permanent stuff. ((mrmom9r of the XLFORUM http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/techtalk:ref:notes05)) | * Seems like everybody does these a little different. I use a steel ring .0005" tight and install using locktite sleeve retainer (green). And yes,I have never had a problem- Street or strip. I do not like welding on the cases without them being torqued together unless it is absolutely necessary. The green locktite sleeve retainer is some very permanent stuff. ((mrmom9r of the XLFORUM http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/techtalk:ref:notes05)) | ||
| - | * Red Loctite is High Strength thread locker , Green is bearing and sleeve retainer and typically for non-threaded apps . There are also two types of green: one is self wicking the other is meant to be applied before assembly. ((DirtyCory http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1512080&page=5)) | + | * Red Loctite is High Strength thread locker , Green is bearing and sleeve retainer and typically for non-threaded apps . There are also two types of green: one is self wicking the other is meant to be applied before assembly. ((DirtyCory https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/139355-trans-corner-reinforcement-54-72/page5?t=1512080&page=5)) |
| Line 287: | Line 242: | ||
| - | * Probably depends on what's available near you. If I had to do it myself I'd go the machined route, but where I used to live there were at least a dozen guys who were TIG-welding gods. Most of them could weld aluminum cans together and have it come out beautiful. I'd say that if you have Grade-AAA welders available and if you are equipped to touch up the cases afterwards, it's a better fix. But if not, the machined part is likely to give better results. ((barefoot http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1512080&page=5)) | + | * Probably depends on what's available near you. If I had to do it myself I'd go the machined route, but where I used to live there were at least a dozen guys who were TIG-welding gods. Most of them could weld aluminum cans together and have it come out beautiful. I'd say that if you have Grade-AAA welders available and if you are equipped to touch up the cases afterwards, it's a better fix. But if not, the machined part is likely to give better results. ((barefoot https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/139355-trans-corner-reinforcement-54-72/page5?t=1512080&page=5)) |
| * Apples and oranges barefoot: | * Apples and oranges barefoot: | ||
| - | * Apple: see a weakness - fix weakness 100%. These guys usually can because they have access to all the machinery needed and the expertise to make it happen. ((Dr Dick http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1512080&page=5)) | + | * Apple: see a weakness - fix weakness 100%. These guys usually can because they have access to all the machinery needed and the expertise to make it happen. ((Dr Dick https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/139355-trans-corner-reinforcement-54-72/page5?t=1512080&page=5)) |
| - | * Orange: bike is apart in my kitchen. I got no tig or mill. It's been together with the weakness for 50yrs. If I can bolt an improvement in without breaking the bank, that's an option. ((Dr Dick http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1512080&page=5)) | + | * Orange: bike is apart in my kitchen. I got no tig or mill. It's been together with the weakness for 50yrs. If I can bolt an improvement in without breaking the bank, that's an option. ((Dr Dick https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/139355-trans-corner-reinforcement-54-72/page5?t=1512080&page=5)) |
| \\ | \\ | ||
| - | [[:techtalk:menu|{{:techtalk:gototechnicalmenu.jpg|}}]] | + | |
| ---- | ---- | ||
| - | |||
| - | |||
| ===== Mainshaft Bore Damage ===== | ===== Mainshaft Bore Damage ===== | ||
| - | By Dr Dick of the XLFORUM,((Dr Dick http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1512080)) | + | By Dr Dick of the XLFORUM,((Dr Dick https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/139355-trans-corner-reinforcement-54-72?t=1512080)) |
| * An overly tight (I.D.) reinforcement ring pinching the needle bearing bore must be avoided. | * An overly tight (I.D.) reinforcement ring pinching the needle bearing bore must be avoided. | ||
| * On L66-72 it will lead to bearing failure. | * On L66-72 it will lead to bearing failure. | ||
| * On 54-early 66 unwelded rings this may be seen upon bearing replacement where the yellow is the bearing: | * On 54-early 66 unwelded rings this may be seen upon bearing replacement where the yellow is the bearing: | ||
| - | {{techtalk:ref:svcproc:bearing_bore_failure_by_dr_dick.jpg?direct|}} (( Illustration by Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1512080)) | + | {{techtalk:ref:svcproc:bearing_bore_failure_by_dr_dick.jpg?direct|}} (( Illustration by Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/139355-trans-corner-reinforcement-54-72?t=1512080)) |
| * Its hard, if not impossible, to get a measurement off the case boss O.D. I made up a set of gauging rings in .001 bore increment steps to find boss O.D. These gauging rings need to be long enough to be manipulated inside case. | * Its hard, if not impossible, to get a measurement off the case boss O.D. I made up a set of gauging rings in .001 bore increment steps to find boss O.D. These gauging rings need to be long enough to be manipulated inside case. | ||
| Line 318: | Line 271: | ||
| \\ | \\ | ||
| - | [[:techtalk:menu|{{:techtalk:gototechnicalmenu.jpg|}}]] | + | |
| ---- | ---- | ||
| ===== Bore Boss Repair ===== | ===== Bore Boss Repair ===== | ||
| + | * Not so bad. Of the different kinds of damage this is the easiest to repair and in my opinion results in a phenomenally tuff crankcase. I never seen one fail after what I'm going to describe. I have personally done this procedure many times. My '60ch 72" is done like this. I hammer the hell out of that bike. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/139355-trans-corner-reinforcement-54-72/page3?t=1512080&page=3)) | ||
| - | + | {{techtalk:ref:svcproc:cracked_boss_right_case_by_bobber58.jpg?direct|}} ((photo by bobber58 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/139355-trans-corner-reinforcement-54-72/page3?t=1512080&page=3)) | |
| - | + | ||
| - | + | ||
| - | * Not so bad. Of the different kinds of damage this is the easiest to repair and in my opinion results in a phenomenally tuff crankcase. I never seen one fail after what I'm going to describe. I have personally done this procedure many times. My '60ch 72" is done like this. I hammer the hell out of that bike. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1512080&page=3)) | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | {{techtalk:ref:svcproc:cracked_boss_right_case_by_bobber58.jpg?direct|}} ((photo by bobber58 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1512080&page=3)) | + | |
| * But 1st: | * But 1st: | ||
| - | * When you weld you WILL get warpage that accompanies that welding. The more you weld the more warpage you will get. The underlying cause for this is: as metal changes temperature, it changes in size. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1512080&page=3)) | + | * When you weld you WILL get warpage that accompanies that welding. The more you weld the more warpage you will get. The underlying cause for this is: as metal changes temperature, it changes in size. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/139355-trans-corner-reinforcement-54-72/page3?t=1512080&page=3)) |
| - | * The temperature change in the weld is from molten to room temp. The temp change in the surrounding parent material is less. The parent material obviously cant be preheated to molten so there's a difference in size change between the welded and the case material. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1512080&page=3)) | + | * The temperature change in the weld is from molten to room temp. The temp change in the surrounding parent material is less. The parent material obviously cant be preheated to molten so there's a difference in size change between the welded and the case material. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/139355-trans-corner-reinforcement-54-72/page3?t=1512080&page=3)) |
| * This is the warpage. | * This is the warpage. | ||
| * Sometimes repairing the warpage is a bigger job than the original repair (when money is being considered). So, getting the countershaft held firm without excessive welding and the warpage that accompanies it is the least intrusive to your cases and your wallet. | * Sometimes repairing the warpage is a bigger job than the original repair (when money is being considered). So, getting the countershaft held firm without excessive welding and the warpage that accompanies it is the least intrusive to your cases and your wallet. | ||
| - | * What you got now. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1512080&page=3)) | + | * What you got now. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/139355-trans-corner-reinforcement-54-72/page3?t=1512080&page=3)) |
| - | {{techtalk:ref:svcproc:case_bore_fix_1_by_dr_dick.jpg?direct|}} ((photo by Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1512080&page=3)) | + | {{techtalk:ref:svcproc:case_bore_fix_1_by_dr_dick.jpg?direct|}} ((photo by Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/139355-trans-corner-reinforcement-54-72/page3?t=1512080&page=3)) |
| * The details: Ring 6061-T6 alum, filler rod 4043 alum. | * The details: Ring 6061-T6 alum, filler rod 4043 alum. | ||
| - | * The 1.75 in. case bore will keep the weld away from the lower kicker cover bolt and dowel. It will also leave a 1/8 in. wide deck in the case that gives you a set height to work from. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1512080&page=3)) | + | * The 1.75 in. case bore will keep the weld away from the lower kicker cover bolt and dowel. It will also leave a 1/8 in. wide deck in the case that gives you a set height to work from. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/139355-trans-corner-reinforcement-54-72/page3?t=1512080&page=3)) |
| - | {{techtalk:ref:svcproc:case_bore_fix_2_by_dr_dick.jpg?direct|}} ((photo by Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1512080&page=3)) | + | {{techtalk:ref:svcproc:case_bore_fix_2_by_dr_dick.jpg?direct|}} ((photo by Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/139355-trans-corner-reinforcement-54-72/page3?t=1512080&page=3)) |
| - | * This is the finished product: ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1512080&page=3)) | + | * This is the finished product: ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/139355-trans-corner-reinforcement-54-72/page3?t=1512080&page=3)) |
| - | {{techtalk:ref:svcproc:case_bore_fix_3_by_dr_dick.jpg?direct|}} ((photo by Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1512080&page=3)) | + | {{techtalk:ref:svcproc:case_bore_fix_3_by_dr_dick.jpg?direct|}} ((photo by Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/139355-trans-corner-reinforcement-54-72/page3?t=1512080&page=3)) |
| - | * This welding also needs to be done before reshooting bores. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1512080&page=3)) | + | * This welding also needs to be done before reshooting bores. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/139355-trans-corner-reinforcement-54-72/page3?t=1512080&page=3)) |
| - | {{techtalk:ref:svcproc:trans_case_fix_5_by_dr_dick.jpg?direct|}} ((photo by Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1512080&page=3)) | + | {{techtalk:ref:svcproc:trans_case_fix_5_by_dr_dick.jpg?direct|}} ((photo by Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/139355-trans-corner-reinforcement-54-72/page3?t=1512080&page=3)) |
| - | * This procedure results in no perceptible warpage at the case parting seams. this cant be said when the case corner is blown apart and a new cast corner piece is welded in. Obviously the outcome is dependent on quality of workmanship. When doing this work the time is right for making sure your door fits correct too. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1512080&page=3)) | + | * This procedure results in no perceptible warpage at the case parting seams. this cant be said when the case corner is blown apart and a new cast corner piece is welded in. Obviously the outcome is dependent on quality of workmanship. When doing this work the time is right for making sure your door fits correct too. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/139355-trans-corner-reinforcement-54-72/page3?t=1512080&page=3)) |
| ==== More Information ==== | ==== More Information ==== | ||
| - | * After welding a support on the countershaft bearing bore, trap door to bore may need to be re-checked. If the bearing support as in the picture is that badly cracked, welding may be the only answer. ((Monte03 of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1512080&page=4)) | + | * After welding a support on the countershaft bearing bore, trap door to bore may need to be re-checked. If the bearing support as in the picture is that badly cracked, welding may be the only answer. ((Monte03 of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/139355-trans-corner-reinforcement-54-72/page4?t=1512080&page=4)) |
| - | * Case bores should be line bored after welding since the holes 'walk' during the welding repair. ((Monte03 http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1952583&highlight=trans)) | + | * Case bores should be line bored after welding since the holes 'walk' during the welding repair. ((Monte03 https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/181380-countershaft-damage?t=1952583&highlight=trans)) |
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| ====== Machining ====== | ====== Machining ====== | ||
| ===== Machining Mainshaft / Countershaft Bores ===== | ===== Machining Mainshaft / Countershaft Bores ===== | ||
| - | Article by barefoot ((barefoot of the XLFORUM http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1512080&page=14)) | + | Article by barefoot ((barefoot of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/139355-trans-corner-reinforcement-54-72/page14?t=1512080&page=14)) |
| There is an art to this and it's not for the inexperienced builder. Also, many people don't have much time on a Bridgeport milling machine: and if someone else has a better way I'm all ears, even creaky old wooofers can learn new tricks (if there's a treat involved) -- | There is an art to this and it's not for the inexperienced builder. Also, many people don't have much time on a Bridgeport milling machine: and if someone else has a better way I'm all ears, even creaky old wooofers can learn new tricks (if there's a treat involved) -- | ||
